24 August 09

The container is now packed and the only outstanding activity is for the rear party to return to the UK. Our journey starts tomorrow afternoon as we embark on the boats that will take us from Nanortalik to Narsarsuaq before flying to the UK via Reykjavik. Our lives are about to change and as well as being reunited with loved ones we will be immersed in the normality of life in the UK. Nanortalik’s population will continue with their own normality – not that our intrusion has caused significant disruption – themes of change and consistence are interwoven both physically and emotionally. Around us during our brief stay we have seen and experienced change. Dramatically ice breaking from glaciers and bergs as it continues its thousands of years journey from the frozen ice cap to melting in the oceans. The seasons too are changing and there is a chill in the air as the landscape and people prepare for the onset of winter. Less dramatically the mosquitoes have disappeared. Just as nature is changing so too are we. Man’s fragile relationship with nature is changing here in southern Greenland, the old and new combine to coexist, sometimes successfully, sometimes less so. Like the ice we, mankind, continue our inexorable journey towards an uncertain destination. In the shorter term you will see, or perhaps by the time you read this will already have seen, how we too as individuals have changed. Certainly our expedition skills have been honed but more significantly our minds have been opened by new places and new people. From chief leader to the youngest YE our development and learning has been enhanced in so many ways but it is especially in the BSES virtues such as curiosity, exploration, inspiration, sociability and thoughtfulness. Our own personal destinations may still be uncertain but our journey has been enriched and perhaps the destination has become a little clearer.

And now over to the young explorers or do I mean the seasoned explorers!!

On the 17th August all the fires were back in base camp and preparing for departure, as well as giving their science presentations and Norse Sagas which had been prompted during the archaeology phase of the expedition. To start the proceedings in the amphitheatre Tim, the chief scientist gave a quick introduction and passed over to the individual fires for their science presentations. During the Sagas several people are worth mentioning, Alan Clark for his impressions of a cow, blueberry and polar bear. Josh for his more than convincing performance as the ‘princess’ and Luke for his 20 minute hoedown!

As a final treat and photo opportunity each of the fires were taken down towards the head of the fjord and a safe distance from the snout of the colossal Sermeaq Glacier. It certainly made for some dramatic team photos.

On the final evening as a full expedition, a ceilidh was hastily organised. The music was provided by bagpipes played by both Doc Keith Slater and Richard Pattison. The dancing, choreographed by Siobhán Power, was not entirely professional but was certainly entertaining and amusing for all.

The rear party has now been formed consisting of 10 YE’s and 10 leaders. The main party left over the 19th and 20th which caused some tearful goodbyes and really brought home the feeling that the expedition is coming to an end.

The barge that would take all the equipment and stores back to civilisation surprised us by arriving under a darkening sky (12 hours early) and was immediately and speedily loaded under the emerging Northern Lights.

After an early wake up call at 0500hrs and having a bowl of porridge, our final journey down the fjord was undertaken in three different boats and had fantastic views of the enormous icebergs that were at the entrance of the fjord. After varying travel times we eventually met up in Nanortalik and moved into the ‘lodge’ which would be our home for the next couple of days. We were introduced to a plethora of things that had been sorely missed, such as toilets, non-expedition food, showers, chairs, heating and freshly baked Danish pastries. When the slow moving tug and barge arrived we moved back into expedition mode to unload the stores and move them to the container ready for cleaning and organising for the return to the UK.

Whilst dinner was being prepared, two Humpback whales were sighted about 100m outside the lodge. They stayed for about 90 minutes regularly showing their flukes in the waning sunlight and rounded off a great expedition for many of the onlookers.

The next day started off with a ‘shopping trip’ to collect the freshly baked Danish pastries before the container was unpacked, the equipment was sorted, cleaned, dried and repacked in preparation for its 4 week boat journey back to BSES.

After all the gruelling stores work we were invited onboard a Danish fisheries protection vessel and were given a guided tour by the crew. To top off a fantastic visit, the crew took pity on us and donated smoked fish and Musk Ox meat to our growing larder.

To say thanks for the hospitality of Captain Jens Kim Jensen and the crew of the Royal Danish ice patrol vessel Tulugaq, the rear party formed on the dock at 0900hrs on their final day in Nanortalik and waved them off with a bagpipe serenade. We then returned to the lodge for a large helping of Danish pastries and tea!

One thing that has struck all of us, is how friendly and curious all the locals have been during our short visit.

We would also like to wish Rosie Rowbotham a happy 18th birthday. We are sure the location will be remembered forever, it is just a shame the whales turned up a day or two earlier than our beloved rear party leader, Joe had booked them for!

Most of the expedition is back!

Most of the Greenland 2009 expedition are now back in the UK! We returned on Saturday morning after a long travel including a night sleeping in a school in Iceland (thanks to the Hagaskoli). The end of the expedition included the northern lights while bivvying in Narsarsuaq which was a treat.

The rear party have had a busy couple of days in Nanortalik packing up the container and wrapping up the expedition. they are now on their way back to the UK and will return tomorrow (Wednesday).

Most of us are tired and catching up on sleep, many are enjoying gastronomic delights and we are all adjusting to being back in the UK. Difficult things to adjust to include choice of food, not sleeping on the floor, cars and lots of people!

Thanks to all who have supported the BSES Greenland 2009 expedition. We will be posting more pictures and news in due course.