Journal
31 July 09
Base camp is now empty and the fires are away on their own individual programmes. Two fires, geology and glaciology are at mountain base camp (MBC) and at differing stages of their adventure phase, fluvial hydrology are on the same side of the fjord with their science programme in full swing. Social sciences have packed in a varied programme with the initial phase of their research started and some shorter overnight excursions successfully completed.
Glaciology fire was the first to arrive at MBC and start training for the ice phase on the glacier. MBC is between 3 and 6 hours walk from the fjord. The climb is initially steep and daunting but the time variation depends on factors ranging from enthusiasm to weight carried, time of day and therefore temperature. A shuttle service is necessary to get the fire complete with all their equipment and rations in situ for the approximate 10 day period that they spend either in MBC training or on the glacier itself. Our next blog should contain a fuller account with pictures of their adventures. Geology fire arrived 2 days ago and so with Glaciology on the ice, they are completing their training in order to start their own adventures.
Fluvial Hydrology has a range of field experiments under way. Amongst their requirements are hourly readings ranging from water depth to temperature and flow rate. Samples are taken and filtered to secure the sediment that is then carefully bagged and tagged so that samples can be tracked. In the UK these will be analysed. Initial results will be available by the end of the year but the production of academic papers is a longer process that will take up to 2 years. Like all the science work our fires are undertaking their contribution has genuine academic merit, that starts from the understanding and work of these 17 year old YEs.
Superimposed on our programme YEs have an opportunity to study the archaeological remains of the Norse settlers from the 10th -15th centuries. It is remarkable and almost beyond comprehension to think of these early inhabitants carving out a living in the bleak surroundings of Tasermiut Fjord. Ally and Irene have made a comprehensive study of the Norse culture and influence; starting in their native Orkney Isles which was pivotal in the westward spread of Viking and Norse culture from Norway to Greenland via not only Orkney, Shetland, Iceland and the Faeroes. Sites abound here and whilst, to the untutored eye, they are little more than piles of rubble and rock, a little analysis and imagination allows the identification of Longhouses, animal corals and religious sites. Being on site brings this to life and allows YEs (and not so young leaders) to learn in a way that engages as no classroom, computer or text book ever could.
So we are now in full swing, the expedition is a reality and already, we the leaders, are witnessing the learning and impact on the YEs. Whether it is organising and preparing for a camping phase, developing new skills and virtues or understanding their science programmes the change in just over 10 days is already discernable and on occasions humbling. From the YE who gave a “Master’s level” (Pete’s words) explanation of a scientific experiment to the forging of team work and perception of group dynamics at both Fire and expedition level we are all emerging as better people. Perhaps most importantly, many are reflecting on their days through journaling and recording their experiences and feelings as their adventures gain momentum. Radio check each evening is the end of most peoples days and the time when we catch up on the adventures of other fires.
From Isuma Fire
Since we have been in Greenland our fire has been pretty busy, the first days in base camp we got used to sleeping, cooking, living and using the toilets outdoors. Some thing’s were maybe a bit of a shock at first but we have all got used to everything now! We did some workshops on river crossing, first aid, communications equipment, boat safety and also some preparation for our science studies. We have also worked on our outdoor cooking skills: we have perfected the art of making oatcakes on the stove and we will be baking bread later today. We were then ready to start trekking and took a boat across the fjord to Tirringnertooq Valley where we pitched our tents, explored the valley and had a beach fire.
After five days of continuous sunshine rain appeared the next day, just when we had to cross a freezing cold river! The incoming tide made our journey harder but we eventually arrived in the next valley: Klosterdalen with a really picturesque water fall and ‘Ketil’ the highest vertical rock face in the world! Ally Sangster and Irene Brews arrived the next day and helped us look for and examine Norse Archaeological sites. We found seven in total including long houses and a church. They also set us a challenge of writing our own Saga’s which will be performed in base camp before the end of the expedition. The journey back across the fjord was quite dramatic as the mist came down and the wind picked up it was doubtful that the second part of the fire would make it back that day, we might have had to ‘borrow’ another fires breakfast! We did however get across safely and were glad to get back to base camp and our supply of powdered milk which we had forgotten to take with us.
We also went on another three day trek up the valley, walked up to the snout of a glacier and trekked up a very, very, very steep mountain. The view from the ridge was definitely worth it and we could see all the way over to the next fjord. Today has been a day of washing, repacking and preparing for our time on the ice, which starts tomorrow. We are also planning to meet up with the Glaciology and Fluvial Hydrology fires to conduct interviews as part of our social science plan.
Sadly one of our fire had to return home due to health issues, if you’re reading this Phil: we all miss you and our choir is just not as good without you!
Written by
Rebecca Van Hove, Rachel Jones, Louise Bradley, Andy Hewitt, Ed Whittle and Rob Adkins
Saturday, 1 August 2009
INTRODUCTION
Greetings from base camp where finally the BSES Greenland 09 expedition is complete. This missive will, subject to the vagary of technology, be the first of what we hope will be weekly updates on the expedition. But please note that there are technical challenges ranging from battery management to getting a satellite link, there are human challenges, such as finding time to write. So the premise is no news is good news, if it goes quiet it’s that we are too busy or unable to write to you from the field. So with that established we will endeavour to keep you updated on life here in Tasermiut Fjord and its surrounding mountains and glaciers. Each piece of our journal will start with an informal but informed overview of the expedition. This will be compiled at base camp by the leadership team. However the most important part of the Journal will be written by the YEs themselves. It is their experiences that matter most and are after all our whole purpose of being here. However there will be challenges in this later aspiration, since the whole concept is that they are working in their fires away from base camp. Their programme is varied not only have they a specific adventure phase whilst on the glaciers but they have the focus of their own scientific projects, as well as additional activities such as studying some of the Norse archaeology in the region. (Although we are pretty isolated we are not by any means the first to camp in this region!) All of this is on top of the challenges of looking after ourselves and everyday expedition life for 5 weeks. So whilst mobile phones are no longer the daily distraction of our lives more fundamental issues such as collecting water are.
We will publish this journal in full on the expedition website (www.greenland09.co.uk ) where you will also find much greater detail on the expedition aims and objectives as well as a chance to meet all of the participants and get links to not only the BSES website but also our other supporters and partners such as the Army. An abridged version will appear on the expedition blog spot ( www.bsesgreenland2009.blogspot.com ) but we won’t be able to publish all of the photographs.
A MESSAGE FROM PETE ALLISON EXPEDITION LEADER
We are finally all at base camp – it has been a long journey to get here (in more ways than one). The details of the journey are above and there are more specifics below. My main purpose here is to say what a wonderful job all of the young explorers are doing. Our job as leaders is to create a framework for them to explore and to learn within (more at the web site referenced above). The main focus is their development and learning and so much of the conversation so far has been about identifying what they understand by learning and development. After one night at base camp with the whole expedition present fires started to leave which minimises the chances of base camp fever and enables everyone to capitalise on their energy to start exploring this surreal landscape.
On a personal note, the pleasure of seeing everyone’s faces arriving in the fjord, seeing the busy-ness of base camp as people count rations, pack, re pack and prepare is a joy. I am struck by the appetite for adventure of everyone ad thoroughly impressed with the way that the YE’s are conducting themselves. A credit to themselves.
Finally, the expedition is possible and considerably enhanced by the first class leader team that are here and giving their everything to make the expedition a fabulous experience for all involved. My personal thanks go to everyone who has helped the expedition get here – BSES staff, Army personnel and everyone who has supported YE’s in whatever ways (big and small).
OVERVIEW
The morning of 20 July heralded a new dawn for us all and as YE’s and leaders gathered there was no doubting the buzz of excitement at Heathrow departure lounge. But when does an expedition become an expedition? For some their journey had started with a fond farewell to home and creature comforts the previous day. But for all of us the real journey had started months or even years ago. Expeditions don’t just start, they emerge. For BSES and the expedition leadership the journey started 2 years ago as fledgling ideas where discussed, dismissed, reborn, refined and finally given life as ideas turned into tangible reality. For YEs their journey has been a similar one as they first heard of the opportunity, dared to dream and set about being accepted before turning to the reality of funding their participation. The only significance of being at Heathrow was that it turned dreams and aspirations into the beginning of the actual expedition. Heathrow was not a beginning only a step on the journey.
Arriving in Iceland three hours later was another step. A coach journey from the airport into Reykjavik brought us to a local school (Hagaskoli) that had generously agreed to let us use their school hall as a dormitory and their kitchen to cook supper and breakfast. (The attending bureaucracy that would attend a similar request in the reverse direction is unimaginable) With minimal supervision the YEs shopped and prepared both supper and the following morning breakfast. (So, families, friends and others … no more excuses about not knowing how to cook when asked to help in the kitchen!). At nine o’clock on Tuesday morning a long snake of 60 people wound its way through the suburbs of Reykjavik. Not only was it loaded down with personal kit but group stores ranging from science kit to cooking pans accompanied the trail.
After a two hour flight we arrived in Narsarsuaq, the main airport in Southern Greenland. Immediately we split into boat parties for the 6 hour journey to base camp. Because only three boats were available and we required five we always knew this would be a phased shuttle. Although there were a few delays on the way, we all made it to base camp. As Pete is often reminding us “on real expeditions the unexpected is always happening”. It was not until late on the 22 July that we were all finally complete at basecamp and by now this expedition seems very real!! The journey down the coast was dramatic with icebergs floating all around and steep rocky mountains in the background.
The following day was straight into a round robin of training activities including river crossings, first aid, boat briefing and the use of radios. In addition YEs were coming to terms with the realities of expedition camping. Not least of the challenges being sorting 5 weeks rations for the 15 or so members of each fire into a menu plan that translated into real meals to provide energy for adventures.
Thursday evening saw the first fire leaving base camp. Fluvial hydrology (nicknamed as Fluviology) fire crossed the fjord to their scientific project site. The following morning social science travelled across the fjord to their first camp site and an opportunity to consider their approach to their own science. Glaciology walked up the valley to place out their first markers to allow them to measure the speed at which the glacier is moving. They bivvied overnight before walking back the following day. Geology Fire is still in the base camp area but they have been busy both being introduced to the local geology and also how to map it by using plain table techniques.
So already our expedition is well under way and we are getting into the swing of life in the field. Over the next few journals we will update you more on the fires activities but in the mean time do look at the science section of the web site to find out more about the projects.
A YEs VIEW OF LIFE SO FAR
We eased our way into geology by taking a walk down the beach and looking at the different types of rocks present there. The next day we did our first day hike into the hills in a north-west direction and learned more about how the area was formed. We managed to climb higher up on the side of the mountain to gain a better view of the valley. We are all enjoying learning about these processes in such an amazing environment. The fire has bonded well and having fun. We are looking forward to leaving base-camp on a two-day hike on the other side of the fjord tomorrow. The mosquitoes are driving everyone insane so were looking forward to the adventure phase on the ice where hopefully there will not be any. We did not realise how cold the river was until we had a workshop on river crossing and two people (Fiona and Nadia) got an unscheduled bath, showers are likely to be less frequent than first anticipated. Apart from the cold and the initial doubts about making it to the other side, we all had a lot of fun and did not really mind the cold and wet. Most of the fire took a later boat to base camp which broke down and the group were fortunate enough to be able to spend a relaxed day in Qaqortoq while a replacement boat was being scheduled. The first view of the main valley glacier was incredible, it finally sunk in that we had really come to Greenland! The fire was finally reunited on Wednesday night. Everyone is upbeat, partly due to most of the fire piling into one tent for a group morale booster every night! We are all looking forward to an amazing expedition!
Hope Thomas, Nadia Covert and Alan Clark.
Greetings from base camp where finally the BSES Greenland 09 expedition is complete. This missive will, subject to the vagary of technology, be the first of what we hope will be weekly updates on the expedition. But please note that there are technical challenges ranging from battery management to getting a satellite link, there are human challenges, such as finding time to write. So the premise is no news is good news, if it goes quiet it’s that we are too busy or unable to write to you from the field. So with that established we will endeavour to keep you updated on life here in Tasermiut Fjord and its surrounding mountains and glaciers. Each piece of our journal will start with an informal but informed overview of the expedition. This will be compiled at base camp by the leadership team. However the most important part of the Journal will be written by the YEs themselves. It is their experiences that matter most and are after all our whole purpose of being here. However there will be challenges in this later aspiration, since the whole concept is that they are working in their fires away from base camp. Their programme is varied not only have they a specific adventure phase whilst on the glaciers but they have the focus of their own scientific projects, as well as additional activities such as studying some of the Norse archaeology in the region. (Although we are pretty isolated we are not by any means the first to camp in this region!) All of this is on top of the challenges of looking after ourselves and everyday expedition life for 5 weeks. So whilst mobile phones are no longer the daily distraction of our lives more fundamental issues such as collecting water are.
We will publish this journal in full on the expedition website (www.greenland09.co.uk ) where you will also find much greater detail on the expedition aims and objectives as well as a chance to meet all of the participants and get links to not only the BSES website but also our other supporters and partners such as the Army. An abridged version will appear on the expedition blog spot ( www.bsesgreenland2009.blogspot.com ) but we won’t be able to publish all of the photographs.
A MESSAGE FROM PETE ALLISON EXPEDITION LEADER
We are finally all at base camp – it has been a long journey to get here (in more ways than one). The details of the journey are above and there are more specifics below. My main purpose here is to say what a wonderful job all of the young explorers are doing. Our job as leaders is to create a framework for them to explore and to learn within (more at the web site referenced above). The main focus is their development and learning and so much of the conversation so far has been about identifying what they understand by learning and development. After one night at base camp with the whole expedition present fires started to leave which minimises the chances of base camp fever and enables everyone to capitalise on their energy to start exploring this surreal landscape.
On a personal note, the pleasure of seeing everyone’s faces arriving in the fjord, seeing the busy-ness of base camp as people count rations, pack, re pack and prepare is a joy. I am struck by the appetite for adventure of everyone ad thoroughly impressed with the way that the YE’s are conducting themselves. A credit to themselves.
Finally, the expedition is possible and considerably enhanced by the first class leader team that are here and giving their everything to make the expedition a fabulous experience for all involved. My personal thanks go to everyone who has helped the expedition get here – BSES staff, Army personnel and everyone who has supported YE’s in whatever ways (big and small).
OVERVIEW
The morning of 20 July heralded a new dawn for us all and as YE’s and leaders gathered there was no doubting the buzz of excitement at Heathrow departure lounge. But when does an expedition become an expedition? For some their journey had started with a fond farewell to home and creature comforts the previous day. But for all of us the real journey had started months or even years ago. Expeditions don’t just start, they emerge. For BSES and the expedition leadership the journey started 2 years ago as fledgling ideas where discussed, dismissed, reborn, refined and finally given life as ideas turned into tangible reality. For YEs their journey has been a similar one as they first heard of the opportunity, dared to dream and set about being accepted before turning to the reality of funding their participation. The only significance of being at Heathrow was that it turned dreams and aspirations into the beginning of the actual expedition. Heathrow was not a beginning only a step on the journey.
Arriving in Iceland three hours later was another step. A coach journey from the airport into Reykjavik brought us to a local school (Hagaskoli) that had generously agreed to let us use their school hall as a dormitory and their kitchen to cook supper and breakfast. (The attending bureaucracy that would attend a similar request in the reverse direction is unimaginable) With minimal supervision the YEs shopped and prepared both supper and the following morning breakfast. (So, families, friends and others … no more excuses about not knowing how to cook when asked to help in the kitchen!). At nine o’clock on Tuesday morning a long snake of 60 people wound its way through the suburbs of Reykjavik. Not only was it loaded down with personal kit but group stores ranging from science kit to cooking pans accompanied the trail.
After a two hour flight we arrived in Narsarsuaq, the main airport in Southern Greenland. Immediately we split into boat parties for the 6 hour journey to base camp. Because only three boats were available and we required five we always knew this would be a phased shuttle. Although there were a few delays on the way, we all made it to base camp. As Pete is often reminding us “on real expeditions the unexpected is always happening”. It was not until late on the 22 July that we were all finally complete at basecamp and by now this expedition seems very real!! The journey down the coast was dramatic with icebergs floating all around and steep rocky mountains in the background.
The following day was straight into a round robin of training activities including river crossings, first aid, boat briefing and the use of radios. In addition YEs were coming to terms with the realities of expedition camping. Not least of the challenges being sorting 5 weeks rations for the 15 or so members of each fire into a menu plan that translated into real meals to provide energy for adventures.
Thursday evening saw the first fire leaving base camp. Fluvial hydrology (nicknamed as Fluviology) fire crossed the fjord to their scientific project site. The following morning social science travelled across the fjord to their first camp site and an opportunity to consider their approach to their own science. Glaciology walked up the valley to place out their first markers to allow them to measure the speed at which the glacier is moving. They bivvied overnight before walking back the following day. Geology Fire is still in the base camp area but they have been busy both being introduced to the local geology and also how to map it by using plain table techniques.
So already our expedition is well under way and we are getting into the swing of life in the field. Over the next few journals we will update you more on the fires activities but in the mean time do look at the science section of the web site to find out more about the projects.
A YEs VIEW OF LIFE SO FAR
We eased our way into geology by taking a walk down the beach and looking at the different types of rocks present there. The next day we did our first day hike into the hills in a north-west direction and learned more about how the area was formed. We managed to climb higher up on the side of the mountain to gain a better view of the valley. We are all enjoying learning about these processes in such an amazing environment. The fire has bonded well and having fun. We are looking forward to leaving base-camp on a two-day hike on the other side of the fjord tomorrow. The mosquitoes are driving everyone insane so were looking forward to the adventure phase on the ice where hopefully there will not be any. We did not realise how cold the river was until we had a workshop on river crossing and two people (Fiona and Nadia) got an unscheduled bath, showers are likely to be less frequent than first anticipated. Apart from the cold and the initial doubts about making it to the other side, we all had a lot of fun and did not really mind the cold and wet. Most of the fire took a later boat to base camp which broke down and the group were fortunate enough to be able to spend a relaxed day in Qaqortoq while a replacement boat was being scheduled. The first view of the main valley glacier was incredible, it finally sunk in that we had really come to Greenland! The fire was finally reunited on Wednesday night. Everyone is upbeat, partly due to most of the fire piling into one tent for a group morale booster every night! We are all looking forward to an amazing expedition!
Hope Thomas, Nadia Covert and Alan Clark.
Wednesday, 29 July 2009
On with the Job...
Despite the weather worsening with the rain coming in a bit, all fires are coping well.
Glaciology Fire (Ghostbusters) have made it up onto the ice and the Geology Fire (Qaqqaq) are a little further down the fjord to begin their projects. The Social Sciences Group (Isuma) are currently on a archaeology project while the fluvial fire (Kuuk) are on the Eastern side of the fjord enjoying some fishing in between research periods.
All the boats and other equipment are performing well and all is going to plan so far with the group coming together closer and closer as time goes by.
Glaciology Fire (Ghostbusters) have made it up onto the ice and the Geology Fire (Qaqqaq) are a little further down the fjord to begin their projects. The Social Sciences Group (Isuma) are currently on a archaeology project while the fluvial fire (Kuuk) are on the Eastern side of the fjord enjoying some fishing in between research periods.
All the boats and other equipment are performing well and all is going to plan so far with the group coming together closer and closer as time goes by.
Monday, 27 July 2009
All Arrived
After their Ferry jouney from Narsarsuaq across and up to the head of Tasermuit fjord, the whole team arrived safely at Base camp last week and have now begun their initial phase of activities, bursting out into four corners of Tasermuit fjord to begin their varied fieldwork.
So far everything is going to plan and the weather is looking great - the only problem is the mosquitoes proving a little too friendly so it's head nets on from here on in.
Keep checking back for further updates
So far everything is going to plan and the weather is looking great - the only problem is the mosquitoes proving a little too friendly so it's head nets on from here on in.
Keep checking back for further updates
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