The container is now packed and the only outstanding activity is for the rear party to return to the UK. Our journey starts tomorrow afternoon as we embark on the boats that will take us from Nanortalik to Narsarsuaq before flying to the UK via Reykjavik. Our lives are about to change and as well as being reunited with loved ones we will be immersed in the normality of life in the UK. Nanortalik’s population will continue with their own normality – not that our intrusion has caused significant disruption – themes of change and consistence are interwoven both physically and emotionally. Around us during our brief stay we have seen and experienced change. Dramatically ice breaking from glaciers and bergs as it continues its thousands of years journey from the frozen ice cap to melting in the oceans. The seasons too are changing and there is a chill in the air as the landscape and people prepare for the onset of winter. Less dramatically the mosquitoes have disappeared. Just as nature is changing so too are we. Man’s fragile relationship with nature is changing here in southern Greenland, the old and new combine to coexist, sometimes successfully, sometimes less so. Like the ice we, mankind, continue our inexorable journey towards an uncertain destination. In the shorter term you will see, or perhaps by the time you read this will already have seen, how we too as individuals have changed. Certainly our expedition skills have been honed but more significantly our minds have been opened by new places and new people. From chief leader to the youngest YE our development and learning has been enhanced in so many ways but it is especially in the BSES virtues such as curiosity, exploration, inspiration, sociability and thoughtfulness. Our own personal destinations may still be uncertain but our journey has been enriched and perhaps the destination has become a little clearer.
And now over to the young explorers or do I mean the seasoned explorers!!
On the 17th August all the fires were back in base camp and preparing for departure, as well as giving their science presentations and Norse Sagas which had been prompted during the archaeology phase of the expedition. To start the proceedings in the amphitheatre Tim, the chief scientist gave a quick introduction and passed over to the individual fires for their science presentations. During the Sagas several people are worth mentioning, Alan Clark for his impressions of a cow, blueberry and polar bear. Josh for his more than convincing performance as the ‘princess’ and Luke for his 20 minute hoedown!
As a final treat and photo opportunity each of the fires were taken down towards the head of the fjord and a safe distance from the snout of the colossal Sermeaq Glacier. It certainly made for some dramatic team photos.
On the final evening as a full expedition, a ceilidh was hastily organised. The music was provided by bagpipes played by both Doc Keith Slater and Richard Pattison. The dancing, choreographed by Siobhán Power, was not entirely professional but was certainly entertaining and amusing for all.
The rear party has now been formed consisting of 10 YE’s and 10 leaders. The main party left over the 19th and 20th which caused some tearful goodbyes and really brought home the feeling that the expedition is coming to an end.
The barge that would take all the equipment and stores back to civilisation surprised us by arriving under a darkening sky (12 hours early) and was immediately and speedily loaded under the emerging Northern Lights.
After an early wake up call at 0500hrs and having a bowl of porridge, our final journey down the fjord was undertaken in three different boats and had fantastic views of the enormous icebergs that were at the entrance of the fjord. After varying travel times we eventually met up in Nanortalik and moved into the ‘lodge’ which would be our home for the next couple of days. We were introduced to a plethora of things that had been sorely missed, such as toilets, non-expedition food, showers, chairs, heating and freshly baked Danish pastries. When the slow moving tug and barge arrived we moved back into expedition mode to unload the stores and move them to the container ready for cleaning and organising for the return to the UK.
Whilst dinner was being prepared, two Humpback whales were sighted about 100m outside the lodge. They stayed for about 90 minutes regularly showing their flukes in the waning sunlight and rounded off a great expedition for many of the onlookers.
The next day started off with a ‘shopping trip’ to collect the freshly baked Danish pastries before the container was unpacked, the equipment was sorted, cleaned, dried and repacked in preparation for its 4 week boat journey back to BSES.
After all the gruelling stores work we were invited onboard a Danish fisheries protection vessel and were given a guided tour by the crew. To top off a fantastic visit, the crew took pity on us and donated smoked fish and Musk Ox meat to our growing larder.
To say thanks for the hospitality of Captain Jens Kim Jensen and the crew of the Royal Danish ice patrol vessel Tulugaq, the rear party formed on the dock at 0900hrs on their final day in Nanortalik and waved them off with a bagpipe serenade. We then returned to the lodge for a large helping of Danish pastries and tea!
One thing that has struck all of us, is how friendly and curious all the locals have been during our short visit.
We would also like to wish Rosie Rowbotham a happy 18th birthday. We are sure the location will be remembered forever, it is just a shame the whales turned up a day or two earlier than our beloved rear party leader, Joe had booked them for!
With a focus on the young explorers, the Greenland 2009 expedition aims to make contributions to the development of personal values and beliefs and relationships with others, the environment and the world. Young people will be guided and supported to undertake significant scientific work and challenging journeys in a remote and wild landscape to achieve these aims.
BSES run overseas expeditions for 16-23 year olds to some of the most remote regions on Earth. To find out more go to http://www.bses.org.uk/
BSES run overseas expeditions for 16-23 year olds to some of the most remote regions on Earth. To find out more go to http://www.bses.org.uk/
Wednesday, 26 August 2009
Tuesday, 25 August 2009
Most of the expedition is back!
Most of the Greenland 2009 expedition are now back in the UK! We returned on Saturday morning after a long travel including a night sleeping in a school in Iceland (thanks to the Hagaskoli). The end of the expedition included the northern lights while bivvying in Narsarsuaq which was a treat.
The rear party have had a busy couple of days in Nanortalik packing up the container and wrapping up the expedition. they are now on their way back to the UK and will return tomorrow (Wednesday).
Most of us are tired and catching up on sleep, many are enjoying gastronomic delights and we are all adjusting to being back in the UK. Difficult things to adjust to include choice of food, not sleeping on the floor, cars and lots of people!
Thanks to all who have supported the BSES Greenland 2009 expedition. We will be posting more pictures and news in due course.
The rear party have had a busy couple of days in Nanortalik packing up the container and wrapping up the expedition. they are now on their way back to the UK and will return tomorrow (Wednesday).
Most of us are tired and catching up on sleep, many are enjoying gastronomic delights and we are all adjusting to being back in the UK. Difficult things to adjust to include choice of food, not sleeping on the floor, cars and lots of people!
Thanks to all who have supported the BSES Greenland 2009 expedition. We will be posting more pictures and news in due course.
Friday, 21 August 2009
Return Times
The Group have begun the homeward journey. There return details are:
Date: Saturday 22nd August
Time: 1145
Airport: Heathrow Terminal 1
Flight Details: Iceland Air no.450
See you there!
Date: Saturday 22nd August
Time: 1145
Airport: Heathrow Terminal 1
Flight Details: Iceland Air no.450
See you there!
Friday, 14 August 2009
14 August 2009
It is now mid August and we are all repeatedly amazed at the speed with which the expedition has progressed. Time flies when you are having fun – and that is certainly the case for the whole expedition. As three fires will spend the next few days completing their science work one fire (Kuuk / Fluviology) are completing their time on the ice. On August 17th all fires will return to base camp for a cleaning and organising frenzy before starting the journey home. However, there is some time to pass before then and all of the fires have a busy schedule between now and August 17th. From my own perspective (as the chief leader) I have been thoroughly impressed with the young explorers and the way they have embraced the culture of the expedition and all of the learning opportunities presented to them. The young explorers have been a credit to themselves, families and friends and I suspect when they return will see the world and their lives in very different ways. Of course, all of this has happened as a result of the long and rich history of the society and of a dedicated leader team whom I am honoured to work with. All of these people have not only volunteered their time but have paid to be here during the summer. Of course, we (leaders and YE’s) are all eternally grateful for the support (in all ways shapes and forms) from people who have enabled us to be here. This speaks volumes regarding their commitment to learning in experiential ways in wild environments. Following is the text from Isuma (social science) fire who have just returned from a challenging time on the Greenland Ice cap.
The mountaineering section of our expedition began with the training of the fire. Rope work and knots were the primary aspect learnt on day one of the mountaineering stage with the whole fire becoming familiar with the main kit. Day two allowed the whole fire to try out the new kit on the snow, ably led by the chief mountaineer ‘Apricot’ Johannes. Here we learned ice axe arrest and self belay. The time on the snow was thoroughly enjoyable for the whole fire. Day three allowed the fire to travel on to the ice. Crampons, ice axes, harnesses, helmets and rope all at the ready. The fire learnt how to travel safely on the ice and how to respond if the worst happened. Crevasse rescue perfected, we made ready for adventure and were raring to go!
As this expedition would classify as part of our Duke of Edinburgh’s Gold award, all the YEs got together to plan out our own expedition. Our aim was to travel up glacier ‘three’ to the top of the ‘finger’; a really steep narrow and relatively unknown part of the glacier!
After a rest day we got up at 0500hrs and set off. The early start was necessary to make the most of the morning before the sun made the snow and ice to slushy. We had a great, though quite demanding trek and set up camp at the top of the finger. Putting up tents on rocky ground, surrounded by snow and hampered by a strong wind was quite an experience! We had decided to leave a tent behind to save weight, so we squashed four people into each three man tent. This resulted in quite a cramped, but cosy night for us all!
On Sunday we set off to climb one of the ridges next to the glacier and got to the 1339m summit. Even though the weather was not great, the view from the top was breathtaking. We could all see all the way to Tasermiut fjord on one side and further up the Greenland ice cap on the other side. We had fun playing in the snow and sliding down the hill, but it was nice to get back into the warm and dry tents! Everyone went to bed very early as we had planned a 0300hrs start. The wind picked up during the night though and the mist came down delaying our departure by nine hours! We spent a long morning waiting around in our tents until Johannes gave us the go ahead at midday.
The journey back down to MBC was quite steep and scary in parts, though it was exciting to see some amazing crevasses. We all set a good pace and got back to our campsite in the early evening, tired but happy after an exciting and adventurous expedition on the ice!
For our science we are looking at aspects of teamwork, group management, leadership and communication! We are split in to four groups and each one looks at one of the relevant topics. We are going to visit each individual fire and give them two tasks to carry out. One of these tasks is to stand on a rope which represents a very thin ridge and for them to reorganise themselves according to a give criteria, without falling of the ridge. The other is a selective task, where the group have to select 5 out of 20 (mountaineering equipment and stores) items that they would take with them if stranded on the mountains and had to get base camp. Finally, we observe them at a meal time to give an outline of the fires group dynamics. Our project looks at two main ideas, group dynamics and individual change
The mountaineering section of our expedition began with the training of the fire. Rope work and knots were the primary aspect learnt on day one of the mountaineering stage with the whole fire becoming familiar with the main kit. Day two allowed the whole fire to try out the new kit on the snow, ably led by the chief mountaineer ‘Apricot’ Johannes. Here we learned ice axe arrest and self belay. The time on the snow was thoroughly enjoyable for the whole fire. Day three allowed the fire to travel on to the ice. Crampons, ice axes, harnesses, helmets and rope all at the ready. The fire learnt how to travel safely on the ice and how to respond if the worst happened. Crevasse rescue perfected, we made ready for adventure and were raring to go!
As this expedition would classify as part of our Duke of Edinburgh’s Gold award, all the YEs got together to plan out our own expedition. Our aim was to travel up glacier ‘three’ to the top of the ‘finger’; a really steep narrow and relatively unknown part of the glacier!
After a rest day we got up at 0500hrs and set off. The early start was necessary to make the most of the morning before the sun made the snow and ice to slushy. We had a great, though quite demanding trek and set up camp at the top of the finger. Putting up tents on rocky ground, surrounded by snow and hampered by a strong wind was quite an experience! We had decided to leave a tent behind to save weight, so we squashed four people into each three man tent. This resulted in quite a cramped, but cosy night for us all!
On Sunday we set off to climb one of the ridges next to the glacier and got to the 1339m summit. Even though the weather was not great, the view from the top was breathtaking. We could all see all the way to Tasermiut fjord on one side and further up the Greenland ice cap on the other side. We had fun playing in the snow and sliding down the hill, but it was nice to get back into the warm and dry tents! Everyone went to bed very early as we had planned a 0300hrs start. The wind picked up during the night though and the mist came down delaying our departure by nine hours! We spent a long morning waiting around in our tents until Johannes gave us the go ahead at midday.
The journey back down to MBC was quite steep and scary in parts, though it was exciting to see some amazing crevasses. We all set a good pace and got back to our campsite in the early evening, tired but happy after an exciting and adventurous expedition on the ice!
For our science we are looking at aspects of teamwork, group management, leadership and communication! We are split in to four groups and each one looks at one of the relevant topics. We are going to visit each individual fire and give them two tasks to carry out. One of these tasks is to stand on a rope which represents a very thin ridge and for them to reorganise themselves according to a give criteria, without falling of the ridge. The other is a selective task, where the group have to select 5 out of 20 (mountaineering equipment and stores) items that they would take with them if stranded on the mountains and had to get base camp. Finally, we observe them at a meal time to give an outline of the fires group dynamics. Our project looks at two main ideas, group dynamics and individual change
Tuesday, 11 August 2009
New Photos Added
New photos just added to the BSES Flickr account. Click on the slide show on the right to view them.
Monday, 10 August 2009
10 August 09
The most significant part of this latest missive is, as it should be, the writings of the YEs – in this case Qaqqaq (Geology) Fire. It captures the sense of fun and adventure but don’t be mislead into thinking that this is merely some outdoor camping experience that revolves around snowball fights and singsongs – important as these activities are, they are only a part of the total experience. Qaqqaq have also highlighted the teaching and learning of skills that allow safe participation in exploring glaciers and mountains. What perhaps is less obvious from their writings is how they have been living and reflecting on the BSES virtues. Of course we all hope that some of them will return to glaciers and mountains in the future (and no harm is they don’t) but it is the virtues that we hope they will all keep reflecting on and thinking about as they develop the sense of direction and purpose for their lives.
(If you are left wondering what these virtues are then there are more details on the BSES website but briefly there are nine; curiosity, courage, exploration, experimentation, imagination, discipline, inspiration, sociability and thoughtfulness. They are complimented by nine skills. Equally applicable are the Army’s six core values; courage, discipline, respect, integrity, loyalty and selfless commitment. These values are applicable to all but especially the element of junior soldiers from the Army foundation college at Harrogate.)
Over the last ten days the Qaqqaq fire have bee enjoying the adventure phase of the expedition. The first couple of days consisted of getting equipment and stores to the very scenic mountain base camp which is situated near the base of a waterfall where three glacier valleys meet. The group were also very pleased to welcome Ben to the Fjord having recovered from illness in the UK.
To entertain ourselves during the walk to mountain base camp the ‘Qaqqaq Choir’ performed some (pretty bad) renditions of Queen and Abba.
The following days consisted of glacier and mountaineering training including lessons on ice axe arrest, rope work (tying into the rope system and travelling on the rope), training to walk with crampons and practicing crevasse rescues. The group grasped the new skills quickly and it was soon time to decide on where our adventurous expedition would take place. We decided to spend one of our expedition days exploring a valley which had not yet been explored by anyone from BSES. We managed to find two picturesque glacial lakes (one of which wasn’t on the map) with beautifully deep blue water and mountainous surroundings. At the back of the valley the group found an ideal snow slope for a YE vs. Leaders snow ball fight! Great fun and the only thing damaged were a few of the leaders egos! (I must interject and raise an important fact; at one point the YE’s raised the white flag in surrender but then raised a counter attack to free the three captured YE’s……written by an impartial observer). For the remaining three days of the adventure expedition the group decided to travel up the side of the waterfall to one of the three glaciers that feed into the river at mountain base camp. Some of the group tried to ‘eat’ small pieces of the glacier, Lee stated “that is the freshest water you could drink” to which he got the reply “Yeah and its probably a few thousand years old” from Andy Rockall our mountaineering leader.
After the first day on the glacier we found a small ledge just large enough to fit six tents on the rock face about 50m above the glacier. The views up and down the valley were spectacular.
From our new campsite the group decided to climb the two nearest peaks with heights of 1233m and 1240m. We Had great fun getting to the peaks and when we got there the views were the most spectacular of the whole expedition. From the first peak (1240m) which was the furthest from the Tassermiut fjord, we were able to see the vast stretches of glaciers and mountains which continued hundreds of miles north on to the polar plateau that makes up the remainder of Greenland. From the second peak which was closer to Tassermiut fjord we were able to see across the fjord to the expedition base camp and along the fjord to where it meets the snout of other glaciers. A few of the more daring of the group enjoyed peeking out over the edge of a ledge sticking out from the summit which was 1000m vertically above the glacier.
After taking hundreds of photographs we returned to our camp site having enjoyed one of the best days of the expedition so far! Over the next couple of days the group returned through mountain base camp to the expedition base camp for a couple of days to change from expedition mode back into scientific mode for the final part of our science phase.
(If you are left wondering what these virtues are then there are more details on the BSES website but briefly there are nine; curiosity, courage, exploration, experimentation, imagination, discipline, inspiration, sociability and thoughtfulness. They are complimented by nine skills. Equally applicable are the Army’s six core values; courage, discipline, respect, integrity, loyalty and selfless commitment. These values are applicable to all but especially the element of junior soldiers from the Army foundation college at Harrogate.)
Over the last ten days the Qaqqaq fire have bee enjoying the adventure phase of the expedition. The first couple of days consisted of getting equipment and stores to the very scenic mountain base camp which is situated near the base of a waterfall where three glacier valleys meet. The group were also very pleased to welcome Ben to the Fjord having recovered from illness in the UK.
To entertain ourselves during the walk to mountain base camp the ‘Qaqqaq Choir’ performed some (pretty bad) renditions of Queen and Abba.
The following days consisted of glacier and mountaineering training including lessons on ice axe arrest, rope work (tying into the rope system and travelling on the rope), training to walk with crampons and practicing crevasse rescues. The group grasped the new skills quickly and it was soon time to decide on where our adventurous expedition would take place. We decided to spend one of our expedition days exploring a valley which had not yet been explored by anyone from BSES. We managed to find two picturesque glacial lakes (one of which wasn’t on the map) with beautifully deep blue water and mountainous surroundings. At the back of the valley the group found an ideal snow slope for a YE vs. Leaders snow ball fight! Great fun and the only thing damaged were a few of the leaders egos! (I must interject and raise an important fact; at one point the YE’s raised the white flag in surrender but then raised a counter attack to free the three captured YE’s……written by an impartial observer). For the remaining three days of the adventure expedition the group decided to travel up the side of the waterfall to one of the three glaciers that feed into the river at mountain base camp. Some of the group tried to ‘eat’ small pieces of the glacier, Lee stated “that is the freshest water you could drink” to which he got the reply “Yeah and its probably a few thousand years old” from Andy Rockall our mountaineering leader.
After the first day on the glacier we found a small ledge just large enough to fit six tents on the rock face about 50m above the glacier. The views up and down the valley were spectacular.
From our new campsite the group decided to climb the two nearest peaks with heights of 1233m and 1240m. We Had great fun getting to the peaks and when we got there the views were the most spectacular of the whole expedition. From the first peak (1240m) which was the furthest from the Tassermiut fjord, we were able to see the vast stretches of glaciers and mountains which continued hundreds of miles north on to the polar plateau that makes up the remainder of Greenland. From the second peak which was closer to Tassermiut fjord we were able to see across the fjord to the expedition base camp and along the fjord to where it meets the snout of other glaciers. A few of the more daring of the group enjoyed peeking out over the edge of a ledge sticking out from the summit which was 1000m vertically above the glacier.
After taking hundreds of photographs we returned to our camp site having enjoyed one of the best days of the expedition so far! Over the next couple of days the group returned through mountain base camp to the expedition base camp for a couple of days to change from expedition mode back into scientific mode for the final part of our science phase.
Sunday, 9 August 2009
8 August 09
Life in Tasermiut Fjord has settled into a routine and it’s a stark reality that we are now more than half way through our stay. But routine is what we strive to leave behind as we continue to explore our own and Greenland’s boundaries. The later is well under way with an equal number of fires through their science and adventure programmes. The exploration of ourselves and each other continues and I don’t think that there is anyone who hasn’t recognised change in themselves and each other. These changes are divided into skills and virtues as defined in the BSES ethos and leadership model (for more detail see the BSES and expedition websites). There are nine of each and broadly the skills reflect the learning that is pertinent to us living here or on expeditions in general. The virtues reflect the attributes of character that are brought into sharper focus here in our simplified life devoid of the distractions.
Below is an account of life on the mountain from the Ghostbusters fire…….
On the 26th July we caught a boat across the serenely calm fjord to begin the trek up to Mountain Base Camp (MBC). After a lengthy 7 hour trek, including a hearty lunch and restful nap we finally arrived at our destination, ready to start the mountaineering training in various skills and techniques. The following day we walked about 3hours across a boulder field. On the other side of the boulder field was a perfect training slope for ice travel techniques, including the ice axe arrest ( a method of using an ice axe to slow and stop your fall when on steep snow and ice). At the end of the day we retuned to MBC and were rewarded with a mean boil in the bag meal. The next day we scrambled up to ‘glacier 3’, as we have named it, and resumed ice training. This time we learnt about crevasse rescue and crampon techniques. Alas, during the crevasse rescue training Josh Rhodes managed to defy the laws of physics and extract a ‘deadman’ (a metal plate with a wire strop attached which is buried in the snow to act as an anchor if belays positions are required) from a snow slope using only his body and whatever he had for breakfast that morning, however after further training we could all place a ‘bomb proof’ anchor which could be used to hold any fall if it was ever required.
The day of our expedition onto the glacier arrived in all its glory, and we set off up the steep scree slope until we reached the fixed lines the mountaineering leaders had previously set up. It was interesting to note that at some locations the lines were attached to iron pegs, placed there by the BSES 1997 expedition and which could not be removed without causing more damage. After reaching the glacier snout and roping up into teams we trudged ever higher up the ice until we reached our campsite for the night. Although gravel covered ice doesn’t sound very comfortable , most of us chose to bivi out while only five YE’s slept in tents. The next day we woke to a very strong and bitterly cold wind, yet we resolutely packed up camp and headed out up the glacier. Despite our intentions to reach the base of the next mountain the weather thwarted us as we were forced to trek across a crevasse field to reach shelter from what turned out to be a storm force wind. We found an old campsite complete with a wall as a wind break and competed against the wind and cold to pitch our tents.
After a very cramped night with four in a tent we summited 2 peaks which provided us with stunning views across the surrounding area. On 2nd August we had a 4 am start to get off the glacier whilst the ice and snow was still firm enough to walk on, after scrambling over boulders and sliding down scree we reached MBC after 5 hours and spent the rest of the day sunbathing, washing, sorting out kit and equipment and geneally relaxing, so our early start paid off! We were sad to see the last of our dehydrated ration packs which we were using for the mountaineering phase, as they contained meat in some form or another (apart from Kats vegiterean ration packs). Exhausted afgter our early start we were early to bed in preparatioin for the next days walking back to base camp.
Surprisingly the trial started 5 minutes in, when it took us half an hour to find a suitable crossing point over the 5 foot wide river which had swollen because of the increase in melt water flowing from the glacier we had crossed the day before. Thankfully we soon made up the time and did the walk in a speedy 2 hours. Setting aside half an hour to look for Pippa’s camera paid off, as one of our fire leaders, Jeff eventually found it. We eventually made it back to base camp and began a feeding frenzy to satisfy 8 days worth of munchies.
Below is an account of life on the mountain from the Ghostbusters fire…….
On the 26th July we caught a boat across the serenely calm fjord to begin the trek up to Mountain Base Camp (MBC). After a lengthy 7 hour trek, including a hearty lunch and restful nap we finally arrived at our destination, ready to start the mountaineering training in various skills and techniques. The following day we walked about 3hours across a boulder field. On the other side of the boulder field was a perfect training slope for ice travel techniques, including the ice axe arrest ( a method of using an ice axe to slow and stop your fall when on steep snow and ice). At the end of the day we retuned to MBC and were rewarded with a mean boil in the bag meal. The next day we scrambled up to ‘glacier 3’, as we have named it, and resumed ice training. This time we learnt about crevasse rescue and crampon techniques. Alas, during the crevasse rescue training Josh Rhodes managed to defy the laws of physics and extract a ‘deadman’ (a metal plate with a wire strop attached which is buried in the snow to act as an anchor if belays positions are required) from a snow slope using only his body and whatever he had for breakfast that morning, however after further training we could all place a ‘bomb proof’ anchor which could be used to hold any fall if it was ever required.
The day of our expedition onto the glacier arrived in all its glory, and we set off up the steep scree slope until we reached the fixed lines the mountaineering leaders had previously set up. It was interesting to note that at some locations the lines were attached to iron pegs, placed there by the BSES 1997 expedition and which could not be removed without causing more damage. After reaching the glacier snout and roping up into teams we trudged ever higher up the ice until we reached our campsite for the night. Although gravel covered ice doesn’t sound very comfortable , most of us chose to bivi out while only five YE’s slept in tents. The next day we woke to a very strong and bitterly cold wind, yet we resolutely packed up camp and headed out up the glacier. Despite our intentions to reach the base of the next mountain the weather thwarted us as we were forced to trek across a crevasse field to reach shelter from what turned out to be a storm force wind. We found an old campsite complete with a wall as a wind break and competed against the wind and cold to pitch our tents.
After a very cramped night with four in a tent we summited 2 peaks which provided us with stunning views across the surrounding area. On 2nd August we had a 4 am start to get off the glacier whilst the ice and snow was still firm enough to walk on, after scrambling over boulders and sliding down scree we reached MBC after 5 hours and spent the rest of the day sunbathing, washing, sorting out kit and equipment and geneally relaxing, so our early start paid off! We were sad to see the last of our dehydrated ration packs which we were using for the mountaineering phase, as they contained meat in some form or another (apart from Kats vegiterean ration packs). Exhausted afgter our early start we were early to bed in preparatioin for the next days walking back to base camp.
Surprisingly the trial started 5 minutes in, when it took us half an hour to find a suitable crossing point over the 5 foot wide river which had swollen because of the increase in melt water flowing from the glacier we had crossed the day before. Thankfully we soon made up the time and did the walk in a speedy 2 hours. Setting aside half an hour to look for Pippa’s camera paid off, as one of our fire leaders, Jeff eventually found it. We eventually made it back to base camp and began a feeding frenzy to satisfy 8 days worth of munchies.
Saturday, 1 August 2009
Journal
31 July 09
Base camp is now empty and the fires are away on their own individual programmes. Two fires, geology and glaciology are at mountain base camp (MBC) and at differing stages of their adventure phase, fluvial hydrology are on the same side of the fjord with their science programme in full swing. Social sciences have packed in a varied programme with the initial phase of their research started and some shorter overnight excursions successfully completed.
Glaciology fire was the first to arrive at MBC and start training for the ice phase on the glacier. MBC is between 3 and 6 hours walk from the fjord. The climb is initially steep and daunting but the time variation depends on factors ranging from enthusiasm to weight carried, time of day and therefore temperature. A shuttle service is necessary to get the fire complete with all their equipment and rations in situ for the approximate 10 day period that they spend either in MBC training or on the glacier itself. Our next blog should contain a fuller account with pictures of their adventures. Geology fire arrived 2 days ago and so with Glaciology on the ice, they are completing their training in order to start their own adventures.
Fluvial Hydrology has a range of field experiments under way. Amongst their requirements are hourly readings ranging from water depth to temperature and flow rate. Samples are taken and filtered to secure the sediment that is then carefully bagged and tagged so that samples can be tracked. In the UK these will be analysed. Initial results will be available by the end of the year but the production of academic papers is a longer process that will take up to 2 years. Like all the science work our fires are undertaking their contribution has genuine academic merit, that starts from the understanding and work of these 17 year old YEs.
Superimposed on our programme YEs have an opportunity to study the archaeological remains of the Norse settlers from the 10th -15th centuries. It is remarkable and almost beyond comprehension to think of these early inhabitants carving out a living in the bleak surroundings of Tasermiut Fjord. Ally and Irene have made a comprehensive study of the Norse culture and influence; starting in their native Orkney Isles which was pivotal in the westward spread of Viking and Norse culture from Norway to Greenland via not only Orkney, Shetland, Iceland and the Faeroes. Sites abound here and whilst, to the untutored eye, they are little more than piles of rubble and rock, a little analysis and imagination allows the identification of Longhouses, animal corals and religious sites. Being on site brings this to life and allows YEs (and not so young leaders) to learn in a way that engages as no classroom, computer or text book ever could.
So we are now in full swing, the expedition is a reality and already, we the leaders, are witnessing the learning and impact on the YEs. Whether it is organising and preparing for a camping phase, developing new skills and virtues or understanding their science programmes the change in just over 10 days is already discernable and on occasions humbling. From the YE who gave a “Master’s level” (Pete’s words) explanation of a scientific experiment to the forging of team work and perception of group dynamics at both Fire and expedition level we are all emerging as better people. Perhaps most importantly, many are reflecting on their days through journaling and recording their experiences and feelings as their adventures gain momentum. Radio check each evening is the end of most peoples days and the time when we catch up on the adventures of other fires.
From Isuma Fire
Since we have been in Greenland our fire has been pretty busy, the first days in base camp we got used to sleeping, cooking, living and using the toilets outdoors. Some thing’s were maybe a bit of a shock at first but we have all got used to everything now! We did some workshops on river crossing, first aid, communications equipment, boat safety and also some preparation for our science studies. We have also worked on our outdoor cooking skills: we have perfected the art of making oatcakes on the stove and we will be baking bread later today. We were then ready to start trekking and took a boat across the fjord to Tirringnertooq Valley where we pitched our tents, explored the valley and had a beach fire.
After five days of continuous sunshine rain appeared the next day, just when we had to cross a freezing cold river! The incoming tide made our journey harder but we eventually arrived in the next valley: Klosterdalen with a really picturesque water fall and ‘Ketil’ the highest vertical rock face in the world! Ally Sangster and Irene Brews arrived the next day and helped us look for and examine Norse Archaeological sites. We found seven in total including long houses and a church. They also set us a challenge of writing our own Saga’s which will be performed in base camp before the end of the expedition. The journey back across the fjord was quite dramatic as the mist came down and the wind picked up it was doubtful that the second part of the fire would make it back that day, we might have had to ‘borrow’ another fires breakfast! We did however get across safely and were glad to get back to base camp and our supply of powdered milk which we had forgotten to take with us.
We also went on another three day trek up the valley, walked up to the snout of a glacier and trekked up a very, very, very steep mountain. The view from the ridge was definitely worth it and we could see all the way over to the next fjord. Today has been a day of washing, repacking and preparing for our time on the ice, which starts tomorrow. We are also planning to meet up with the Glaciology and Fluvial Hydrology fires to conduct interviews as part of our social science plan.
Sadly one of our fire had to return home due to health issues, if you’re reading this Phil: we all miss you and our choir is just not as good without you!
Written by
Rebecca Van Hove, Rachel Jones, Louise Bradley, Andy Hewitt, Ed Whittle and Rob Adkins
31 July 09
Base camp is now empty and the fires are away on their own individual programmes. Two fires, geology and glaciology are at mountain base camp (MBC) and at differing stages of their adventure phase, fluvial hydrology are on the same side of the fjord with their science programme in full swing. Social sciences have packed in a varied programme with the initial phase of their research started and some shorter overnight excursions successfully completed.
Glaciology fire was the first to arrive at MBC and start training for the ice phase on the glacier. MBC is between 3 and 6 hours walk from the fjord. The climb is initially steep and daunting but the time variation depends on factors ranging from enthusiasm to weight carried, time of day and therefore temperature. A shuttle service is necessary to get the fire complete with all their equipment and rations in situ for the approximate 10 day period that they spend either in MBC training or on the glacier itself. Our next blog should contain a fuller account with pictures of their adventures. Geology fire arrived 2 days ago and so with Glaciology on the ice, they are completing their training in order to start their own adventures.
Fluvial Hydrology has a range of field experiments under way. Amongst their requirements are hourly readings ranging from water depth to temperature and flow rate. Samples are taken and filtered to secure the sediment that is then carefully bagged and tagged so that samples can be tracked. In the UK these will be analysed. Initial results will be available by the end of the year but the production of academic papers is a longer process that will take up to 2 years. Like all the science work our fires are undertaking their contribution has genuine academic merit, that starts from the understanding and work of these 17 year old YEs.
Superimposed on our programme YEs have an opportunity to study the archaeological remains of the Norse settlers from the 10th -15th centuries. It is remarkable and almost beyond comprehension to think of these early inhabitants carving out a living in the bleak surroundings of Tasermiut Fjord. Ally and Irene have made a comprehensive study of the Norse culture and influence; starting in their native Orkney Isles which was pivotal in the westward spread of Viking and Norse culture from Norway to Greenland via not only Orkney, Shetland, Iceland and the Faeroes. Sites abound here and whilst, to the untutored eye, they are little more than piles of rubble and rock, a little analysis and imagination allows the identification of Longhouses, animal corals and religious sites. Being on site brings this to life and allows YEs (and not so young leaders) to learn in a way that engages as no classroom, computer or text book ever could.
So we are now in full swing, the expedition is a reality and already, we the leaders, are witnessing the learning and impact on the YEs. Whether it is organising and preparing for a camping phase, developing new skills and virtues or understanding their science programmes the change in just over 10 days is already discernable and on occasions humbling. From the YE who gave a “Master’s level” (Pete’s words) explanation of a scientific experiment to the forging of team work and perception of group dynamics at both Fire and expedition level we are all emerging as better people. Perhaps most importantly, many are reflecting on their days through journaling and recording their experiences and feelings as their adventures gain momentum. Radio check each evening is the end of most peoples days and the time when we catch up on the adventures of other fires.
From Isuma Fire
Since we have been in Greenland our fire has been pretty busy, the first days in base camp we got used to sleeping, cooking, living and using the toilets outdoors. Some thing’s were maybe a bit of a shock at first but we have all got used to everything now! We did some workshops on river crossing, first aid, communications equipment, boat safety and also some preparation for our science studies. We have also worked on our outdoor cooking skills: we have perfected the art of making oatcakes on the stove and we will be baking bread later today. We were then ready to start trekking and took a boat across the fjord to Tirringnertooq Valley where we pitched our tents, explored the valley and had a beach fire.
After five days of continuous sunshine rain appeared the next day, just when we had to cross a freezing cold river! The incoming tide made our journey harder but we eventually arrived in the next valley: Klosterdalen with a really picturesque water fall and ‘Ketil’ the highest vertical rock face in the world! Ally Sangster and Irene Brews arrived the next day and helped us look for and examine Norse Archaeological sites. We found seven in total including long houses and a church. They also set us a challenge of writing our own Saga’s which will be performed in base camp before the end of the expedition. The journey back across the fjord was quite dramatic as the mist came down and the wind picked up it was doubtful that the second part of the fire would make it back that day, we might have had to ‘borrow’ another fires breakfast! We did however get across safely and were glad to get back to base camp and our supply of powdered milk which we had forgotten to take with us.
We also went on another three day trek up the valley, walked up to the snout of a glacier and trekked up a very, very, very steep mountain. The view from the ridge was definitely worth it and we could see all the way over to the next fjord. Today has been a day of washing, repacking and preparing for our time on the ice, which starts tomorrow. We are also planning to meet up with the Glaciology and Fluvial Hydrology fires to conduct interviews as part of our social science plan.
Sadly one of our fire had to return home due to health issues, if you’re reading this Phil: we all miss you and our choir is just not as good without you!
Written by
Rebecca Van Hove, Rachel Jones, Louise Bradley, Andy Hewitt, Ed Whittle and Rob Adkins
INTRODUCTION
Greetings from base camp where finally the BSES Greenland 09 expedition is complete. This missive will, subject to the vagary of technology, be the first of what we hope will be weekly updates on the expedition. But please note that there are technical challenges ranging from battery management to getting a satellite link, there are human challenges, such as finding time to write. So the premise is no news is good news, if it goes quiet it’s that we are too busy or unable to write to you from the field. So with that established we will endeavour to keep you updated on life here in Tasermiut Fjord and its surrounding mountains and glaciers. Each piece of our journal will start with an informal but informed overview of the expedition. This will be compiled at base camp by the leadership team. However the most important part of the Journal will be written by the YEs themselves. It is their experiences that matter most and are after all our whole purpose of being here. However there will be challenges in this later aspiration, since the whole concept is that they are working in their fires away from base camp. Their programme is varied not only have they a specific adventure phase whilst on the glaciers but they have the focus of their own scientific projects, as well as additional activities such as studying some of the Norse archaeology in the region. (Although we are pretty isolated we are not by any means the first to camp in this region!) All of this is on top of the challenges of looking after ourselves and everyday expedition life for 5 weeks. So whilst mobile phones are no longer the daily distraction of our lives more fundamental issues such as collecting water are.
We will publish this journal in full on the expedition website (www.greenland09.co.uk ) where you will also find much greater detail on the expedition aims and objectives as well as a chance to meet all of the participants and get links to not only the BSES website but also our other supporters and partners such as the Army. An abridged version will appear on the expedition blog spot ( www.bsesgreenland2009.blogspot.com ) but we won’t be able to publish all of the photographs.
A MESSAGE FROM PETE ALLISON EXPEDITION LEADER
We are finally all at base camp – it has been a long journey to get here (in more ways than one). The details of the journey are above and there are more specifics below. My main purpose here is to say what a wonderful job all of the young explorers are doing. Our job as leaders is to create a framework for them to explore and to learn within (more at the web site referenced above). The main focus is their development and learning and so much of the conversation so far has been about identifying what they understand by learning and development. After one night at base camp with the whole expedition present fires started to leave which minimises the chances of base camp fever and enables everyone to capitalise on their energy to start exploring this surreal landscape.
On a personal note, the pleasure of seeing everyone’s faces arriving in the fjord, seeing the busy-ness of base camp as people count rations, pack, re pack and prepare is a joy. I am struck by the appetite for adventure of everyone ad thoroughly impressed with the way that the YE’s are conducting themselves. A credit to themselves.
Finally, the expedition is possible and considerably enhanced by the first class leader team that are here and giving their everything to make the expedition a fabulous experience for all involved. My personal thanks go to everyone who has helped the expedition get here – BSES staff, Army personnel and everyone who has supported YE’s in whatever ways (big and small).
OVERVIEW
The morning of 20 July heralded a new dawn for us all and as YE’s and leaders gathered there was no doubting the buzz of excitement at Heathrow departure lounge. But when does an expedition become an expedition? For some their journey had started with a fond farewell to home and creature comforts the previous day. But for all of us the real journey had started months or even years ago. Expeditions don’t just start, they emerge. For BSES and the expedition leadership the journey started 2 years ago as fledgling ideas where discussed, dismissed, reborn, refined and finally given life as ideas turned into tangible reality. For YEs their journey has been a similar one as they first heard of the opportunity, dared to dream and set about being accepted before turning to the reality of funding their participation. The only significance of being at Heathrow was that it turned dreams and aspirations into the beginning of the actual expedition. Heathrow was not a beginning only a step on the journey.
Arriving in Iceland three hours later was another step. A coach journey from the airport into Reykjavik brought us to a local school (Hagaskoli) that had generously agreed to let us use their school hall as a dormitory and their kitchen to cook supper and breakfast. (The attending bureaucracy that would attend a similar request in the reverse direction is unimaginable) With minimal supervision the YEs shopped and prepared both supper and the following morning breakfast. (So, families, friends and others … no more excuses about not knowing how to cook when asked to help in the kitchen!). At nine o’clock on Tuesday morning a long snake of 60 people wound its way through the suburbs of Reykjavik. Not only was it loaded down with personal kit but group stores ranging from science kit to cooking pans accompanied the trail.
After a two hour flight we arrived in Narsarsuaq, the main airport in Southern Greenland. Immediately we split into boat parties for the 6 hour journey to base camp. Because only three boats were available and we required five we always knew this would be a phased shuttle. Although there were a few delays on the way, we all made it to base camp. As Pete is often reminding us “on real expeditions the unexpected is always happening”. It was not until late on the 22 July that we were all finally complete at basecamp and by now this expedition seems very real!! The journey down the coast was dramatic with icebergs floating all around and steep rocky mountains in the background.
The following day was straight into a round robin of training activities including river crossings, first aid, boat briefing and the use of radios. In addition YEs were coming to terms with the realities of expedition camping. Not least of the challenges being sorting 5 weeks rations for the 15 or so members of each fire into a menu plan that translated into real meals to provide energy for adventures.
Thursday evening saw the first fire leaving base camp. Fluvial hydrology (nicknamed as Fluviology) fire crossed the fjord to their scientific project site. The following morning social science travelled across the fjord to their first camp site and an opportunity to consider their approach to their own science. Glaciology walked up the valley to place out their first markers to allow them to measure the speed at which the glacier is moving. They bivvied overnight before walking back the following day. Geology Fire is still in the base camp area but they have been busy both being introduced to the local geology and also how to map it by using plain table techniques.
So already our expedition is well under way and we are getting into the swing of life in the field. Over the next few journals we will update you more on the fires activities but in the mean time do look at the science section of the web site to find out more about the projects.
A YEs VIEW OF LIFE SO FAR
We eased our way into geology by taking a walk down the beach and looking at the different types of rocks present there. The next day we did our first day hike into the hills in a north-west direction and learned more about how the area was formed. We managed to climb higher up on the side of the mountain to gain a better view of the valley. We are all enjoying learning about these processes in such an amazing environment. The fire has bonded well and having fun. We are looking forward to leaving base-camp on a two-day hike on the other side of the fjord tomorrow. The mosquitoes are driving everyone insane so were looking forward to the adventure phase on the ice where hopefully there will not be any. We did not realise how cold the river was until we had a workshop on river crossing and two people (Fiona and Nadia) got an unscheduled bath, showers are likely to be less frequent than first anticipated. Apart from the cold and the initial doubts about making it to the other side, we all had a lot of fun and did not really mind the cold and wet. Most of the fire took a later boat to base camp which broke down and the group were fortunate enough to be able to spend a relaxed day in Qaqortoq while a replacement boat was being scheduled. The first view of the main valley glacier was incredible, it finally sunk in that we had really come to Greenland! The fire was finally reunited on Wednesday night. Everyone is upbeat, partly due to most of the fire piling into one tent for a group morale booster every night! We are all looking forward to an amazing expedition!
Hope Thomas, Nadia Covert and Alan Clark.
Greetings from base camp where finally the BSES Greenland 09 expedition is complete. This missive will, subject to the vagary of technology, be the first of what we hope will be weekly updates on the expedition. But please note that there are technical challenges ranging from battery management to getting a satellite link, there are human challenges, such as finding time to write. So the premise is no news is good news, if it goes quiet it’s that we are too busy or unable to write to you from the field. So with that established we will endeavour to keep you updated on life here in Tasermiut Fjord and its surrounding mountains and glaciers. Each piece of our journal will start with an informal but informed overview of the expedition. This will be compiled at base camp by the leadership team. However the most important part of the Journal will be written by the YEs themselves. It is their experiences that matter most and are after all our whole purpose of being here. However there will be challenges in this later aspiration, since the whole concept is that they are working in their fires away from base camp. Their programme is varied not only have they a specific adventure phase whilst on the glaciers but they have the focus of their own scientific projects, as well as additional activities such as studying some of the Norse archaeology in the region. (Although we are pretty isolated we are not by any means the first to camp in this region!) All of this is on top of the challenges of looking after ourselves and everyday expedition life for 5 weeks. So whilst mobile phones are no longer the daily distraction of our lives more fundamental issues such as collecting water are.
We will publish this journal in full on the expedition website (www.greenland09.co.uk ) where you will also find much greater detail on the expedition aims and objectives as well as a chance to meet all of the participants and get links to not only the BSES website but also our other supporters and partners such as the Army. An abridged version will appear on the expedition blog spot ( www.bsesgreenland2009.blogspot.com ) but we won’t be able to publish all of the photographs.
A MESSAGE FROM PETE ALLISON EXPEDITION LEADER
We are finally all at base camp – it has been a long journey to get here (in more ways than one). The details of the journey are above and there are more specifics below. My main purpose here is to say what a wonderful job all of the young explorers are doing. Our job as leaders is to create a framework for them to explore and to learn within (more at the web site referenced above). The main focus is their development and learning and so much of the conversation so far has been about identifying what they understand by learning and development. After one night at base camp with the whole expedition present fires started to leave which minimises the chances of base camp fever and enables everyone to capitalise on their energy to start exploring this surreal landscape.
On a personal note, the pleasure of seeing everyone’s faces arriving in the fjord, seeing the busy-ness of base camp as people count rations, pack, re pack and prepare is a joy. I am struck by the appetite for adventure of everyone ad thoroughly impressed with the way that the YE’s are conducting themselves. A credit to themselves.
Finally, the expedition is possible and considerably enhanced by the first class leader team that are here and giving their everything to make the expedition a fabulous experience for all involved. My personal thanks go to everyone who has helped the expedition get here – BSES staff, Army personnel and everyone who has supported YE’s in whatever ways (big and small).
OVERVIEW
The morning of 20 July heralded a new dawn for us all and as YE’s and leaders gathered there was no doubting the buzz of excitement at Heathrow departure lounge. But when does an expedition become an expedition? For some their journey had started with a fond farewell to home and creature comforts the previous day. But for all of us the real journey had started months or even years ago. Expeditions don’t just start, they emerge. For BSES and the expedition leadership the journey started 2 years ago as fledgling ideas where discussed, dismissed, reborn, refined and finally given life as ideas turned into tangible reality. For YEs their journey has been a similar one as they first heard of the opportunity, dared to dream and set about being accepted before turning to the reality of funding their participation. The only significance of being at Heathrow was that it turned dreams and aspirations into the beginning of the actual expedition. Heathrow was not a beginning only a step on the journey.
Arriving in Iceland three hours later was another step. A coach journey from the airport into Reykjavik brought us to a local school (Hagaskoli) that had generously agreed to let us use their school hall as a dormitory and their kitchen to cook supper and breakfast. (The attending bureaucracy that would attend a similar request in the reverse direction is unimaginable) With minimal supervision the YEs shopped and prepared both supper and the following morning breakfast. (So, families, friends and others … no more excuses about not knowing how to cook when asked to help in the kitchen!). At nine o’clock on Tuesday morning a long snake of 60 people wound its way through the suburbs of Reykjavik. Not only was it loaded down with personal kit but group stores ranging from science kit to cooking pans accompanied the trail.
After a two hour flight we arrived in Narsarsuaq, the main airport in Southern Greenland. Immediately we split into boat parties for the 6 hour journey to base camp. Because only three boats were available and we required five we always knew this would be a phased shuttle. Although there were a few delays on the way, we all made it to base camp. As Pete is often reminding us “on real expeditions the unexpected is always happening”. It was not until late on the 22 July that we were all finally complete at basecamp and by now this expedition seems very real!! The journey down the coast was dramatic with icebergs floating all around and steep rocky mountains in the background.
The following day was straight into a round robin of training activities including river crossings, first aid, boat briefing and the use of radios. In addition YEs were coming to terms with the realities of expedition camping. Not least of the challenges being sorting 5 weeks rations for the 15 or so members of each fire into a menu plan that translated into real meals to provide energy for adventures.
Thursday evening saw the first fire leaving base camp. Fluvial hydrology (nicknamed as Fluviology) fire crossed the fjord to their scientific project site. The following morning social science travelled across the fjord to their first camp site and an opportunity to consider their approach to their own science. Glaciology walked up the valley to place out their first markers to allow them to measure the speed at which the glacier is moving. They bivvied overnight before walking back the following day. Geology Fire is still in the base camp area but they have been busy both being introduced to the local geology and also how to map it by using plain table techniques.
So already our expedition is well under way and we are getting into the swing of life in the field. Over the next few journals we will update you more on the fires activities but in the mean time do look at the science section of the web site to find out more about the projects.
A YEs VIEW OF LIFE SO FAR
We eased our way into geology by taking a walk down the beach and looking at the different types of rocks present there. The next day we did our first day hike into the hills in a north-west direction and learned more about how the area was formed. We managed to climb higher up on the side of the mountain to gain a better view of the valley. We are all enjoying learning about these processes in such an amazing environment. The fire has bonded well and having fun. We are looking forward to leaving base-camp on a two-day hike on the other side of the fjord tomorrow. The mosquitoes are driving everyone insane so were looking forward to the adventure phase on the ice where hopefully there will not be any. We did not realise how cold the river was until we had a workshop on river crossing and two people (Fiona and Nadia) got an unscheduled bath, showers are likely to be less frequent than first anticipated. Apart from the cold and the initial doubts about making it to the other side, we all had a lot of fun and did not really mind the cold and wet. Most of the fire took a later boat to base camp which broke down and the group were fortunate enough to be able to spend a relaxed day in Qaqortoq while a replacement boat was being scheduled. The first view of the main valley glacier was incredible, it finally sunk in that we had really come to Greenland! The fire was finally reunited on Wednesday night. Everyone is upbeat, partly due to most of the fire piling into one tent for a group morale booster every night! We are all looking forward to an amazing expedition!
Hope Thomas, Nadia Covert and Alan Clark.
Wednesday, 29 July 2009
On with the Job...
Despite the weather worsening with the rain coming in a bit, all fires are coping well.
Glaciology Fire (Ghostbusters) have made it up onto the ice and the Geology Fire (Qaqqaq) are a little further down the fjord to begin their projects. The Social Sciences Group (Isuma) are currently on a archaeology project while the fluvial fire (Kuuk) are on the Eastern side of the fjord enjoying some fishing in between research periods.
All the boats and other equipment are performing well and all is going to plan so far with the group coming together closer and closer as time goes by.
Glaciology Fire (Ghostbusters) have made it up onto the ice and the Geology Fire (Qaqqaq) are a little further down the fjord to begin their projects. The Social Sciences Group (Isuma) are currently on a archaeology project while the fluvial fire (Kuuk) are on the Eastern side of the fjord enjoying some fishing in between research periods.
All the boats and other equipment are performing well and all is going to plan so far with the group coming together closer and closer as time goes by.
Monday, 27 July 2009
All Arrived
After their Ferry jouney from Narsarsuaq across and up to the head of Tasermuit fjord, the whole team arrived safely at Base camp last week and have now begun their initial phase of activities, bursting out into four corners of Tasermuit fjord to begin their varied fieldwork.
So far everything is going to plan and the weather is looking great - the only problem is the mosquitoes proving a little too friendly so it's head nets on from here on in.
Keep checking back for further updates
So far everything is going to plan and the weather is looking great - the only problem is the mosquitoes proving a little too friendly so it's head nets on from here on in.
Keep checking back for further updates
Sunday, 19 July 2009
Mozzies and Sunscreen!
On Saturday evening the advance party finally made it to base camp. After a long journey and a lot of work they arrived with all of the container contents. The sun was shining and they were all relived to be there. They also all had 'silly smiles' as they absorbed the scenery that surrounded them. The local mozzies were also waiting to welcome them on arrival so the main advice from the advance party was 'remember your mozzie net and sunscreen'.
The next few days are all about getting base camp set up and organised ready to welcome the main party who arrive there on Tuesday and Wednesday next week. Its a busy time at base camp and its a busy time for the main party travelling out. We do not expect to be able to update the blog for at least a week so please do not be put off by the lack of communications - we are too busy travelling and having fun! Here are a few more pics from the advance party ... it was hard work - honest!
The next few days are all about getting base camp set up and organised ready to welcome the main party who arrive there on Tuesday and Wednesday next week. Its a busy time at base camp and its a busy time for the main party travelling out. We do not expect to be able to update the blog for at least a week so please do not be put off by the lack of communications - we are too busy travelling and having fun! Here are a few more pics from the advance party ... it was hard work - honest!
Saturday, 18 July 2009
Heading for the fjord
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After three busy days in Nanortalik of food organising, logistics confirmations and other jobs to ensure the expedition runs smoothly it is time to head to the fjord.
The fjord has been blocked by ice all week but in the last 24 hours the wind has changed to a North Easterly. This has blown the ice out sufficiently to allow boats to enter and exit the fjord. At 9am this morning it was questionable but by 10am, lots of chin scratching and some coffee the barge was loaded with equipment and everyone on their way!
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Wednesday, 15 July 2009
The news from the Advance Party ...



Well the day of departure has finally arrived…………
for the advance party at least! The group of ten arrived early at Heathrow where final team equipment consisting of solar panels and other essentials were distributed by Patrick, and safely packed in rucksacks.
The bulging baggage was checked in without drama and we headed through the security check in. What a sight - ten explorers peeling off outer layers (that they couldn’t fit into rucksacks) and heavy boots so they could be fed through the x-ray machine. I am sure there was a pungent smell of sweaty feet lingering as we left for the waiting area, however I am sure it will be a lot worse on our return. Our departure was delayed slightly but it was an uneventful flight to Iceland.
The advance party, ably led by Dr Joe Gibson, arrived at Keflavik airport and were bussed to our overnight stop, "the main hall" of the Hagaskoli high school in Reykjavik. The next morning it was a 30 minute walk to Reykjavik airport and the next leg of our journey to Greenland.

Tuesday, 14 July 2009
News from the Advanced Party
Stop Press ... Just received a brief message from the advance party. This morning they flew from Raykjavik to Narsarsuaq. After a brief stop they then took a boat down the coast to Nanortalik which weaved its way through icebergs. The highlight was a hump back whale 'en route'.
Tonight they are in Nanortalik looking out over ice and mountains, preparing for a busy day tomorrow of unpacking the container. More when I hear more ... remember no news is good news.
Filming Begins
This morning the team walked to Reykjavik airport and were met by Fire leader Dr. Takako Takano who was accompanied by a Japanese film crew who are filming a documentary on her personal achievements which will be released later this year in Japanese (and in English in the middle of next year).
During the flight from Iceland to Narsarsuaq in Greenland we were treated to a fantastic view across the vast ice cap and mountainous fjords that flow from it. After landing we transferred to boat that would whisk us on our 5 hour journey along the southern coast of Greenland. During the journey we were treated to a fantastic array of different size and shape of icebergs that had drifted back in towards the coast, but the highlight of the day was the sighting of a humpback whale, not bad for day two of our expedition!
After unloading the boat at Nanortalik and moving into our temporary lodgings several explorers were despatched to buy food and rustle up dinner, which was served in the glorious evening sun.
After years of planning from the exped leaders, the advance party has finally arrived in Greenland with a huge sigh of relief, however there is still a lot of work to be done and it will begin in earnest tomorrow.
......... on behalf of the advance party and the rest of the expedition, we would all like to say a huge thank you to the unsung heroes of BSES, Patrick (see photo), Dot, Jamie and Will who have the unenviable task of chasing paperwork, booking flights, dealing with everyone of our personal issues and 101 other issues that we luckily don’t have to get involved in, but don’t actually come along on the exped!
During the flight from Iceland to Narsarsuaq in Greenland we were treated to a fantastic view across the vast ice cap and mountainous fjords that flow from it. After landing we transferred to boat that would whisk us on our 5 hour journey along the southern coast of Greenland. During the journey we were treated to a fantastic array of different size and shape of icebergs that had drifted back in towards the coast, but the highlight of the day was the sighting of a humpback whale, not bad for day two of our expedition!
After unloading the boat at Nanortalik and moving into our temporary lodgings several explorers were despatched to buy food and rustle up dinner, which was served in the glorious evening sun.
After years of planning from the exped leaders, the advance party has finally arrived in Greenland with a huge sigh of relief, however there is still a lot of work to be done and it will begin in earnest tomorrow.
......... on behalf of the advance party and the rest of the expedition, we would all like to say a huge thank you to the unsung heroes of BSES, Patrick (see photo), Dot, Jamie and Will who have the unenviable task of chasing paperwork, booking flights, dealing with everyone of our personal issues and 101 other issues that we luckily don’t have to get involved in, but don’t actually come along on the exped!
Monday, 13 July 2009
The Advance Party Have Departed
Finally the time has come and the advance party are now on their way to Greenland! Today they caught the 1pm flight from Heathrow to Keflavic. Then they transferred to a mini bus which took them for the 1.5 hour journey to Reykjavik where they are staying in a high school. The School have very kindly offered to host us as they believe in the value of expeditions.
Tomorrow they will be up early, to the airstrip in Reykjavik and flying to Narsarsuaq. Here they are - all clean and ready for an adventure at Heathrow!
Monday, 6 July 2009
One or Two weeks to go
Only one week to go until the advance party leave and two weeks for the main party.
Final planning is currently under way. The advance party finances, responsibility for logistics en route and other fine details are coming into place.
The main party will be travelling in several different groups - two parties from heathrow at different times and a few individual leaders from Gatwick. Once in Iceland we are all travelling on the same flight to Greenland and then splitting up again for the boat journey to base camp. It will be a 2-3 day journey followed by 2 busy days in base camp before heading off to start science or to the glacier.
We are all putting together equipment in between walks to break the boots in as much as possible and trying to minimise weight and volume of kit. Excitement is definitely mounting!
Final planning is currently under way. The advance party finances, responsibility for logistics en route and other fine details are coming into place.
The main party will be travelling in several different groups - two parties from heathrow at different times and a few individual leaders from Gatwick. Once in Iceland we are all travelling on the same flight to Greenland and then splitting up again for the boat journey to base camp. It will be a 2-3 day journey followed by 2 busy days in base camp before heading off to start science or to the glacier.
We are all putting together equipment in between walks to break the boots in as much as possible and trying to minimise weight and volume of kit. Excitement is definitely mounting!
Friday, 3 July 2009
Fieldwork
Each Fire will be undertaking different field research projects. These projects and their Science Leaders are outlined below:
Pro-glacial hydrology and sediment transport
Prof Tim Stott
This project aims to monitor suspended sediment transport, river discharge and air temperature in the pro-glacial zone of a suitable glacier around the Tasermiut fjord (eg. Uiluit Kua, Sermitsiag or Itivdlerssuaq). It extends work carried out by Tim on the 1998 BSES expedition in NE Greenland. Young explorers will undertake flow measurements, river surveys, 24-hr sampling programmes and sample processing. The 1998 results were published in two scientific journals and the same is hoped for 2009.
Social Sciences
Dr Kris von Wald
The social sciences fire will give young explorers an opportunity to engage in designing and developing an enquiry about the experiences of expedition participants while they are on expedition. YE’s will decide what questions they find interesting and explore different methods of answering those questions. The framework may include an exploration of their individual experiences, the experiences of their fires, the experiences across fires, and the experiences of fire/expedition leaders. They will learn research skills such as interview techniques and observational skills; creative writing, storytelling and case study approaches; gathering and representing data using all of their senses and accommodating different learning styles.
Glaciology
Dr Anne-Marie Nuttall
The glaciology fire will tackle questions that are highly relevant to current concerns about climate change. An ongoing project will monitor melt rates on the surface of the Sermitsiaq glacier, and analyse how these are affected by air temperature, humidity and other meteorological factors. Flow rates of the glacier will be surveyed to see if the glacier moves faster at times when more meltwater is produced. This positive feedback mechanism may lead to substantial acceleration of large areas of the Greenland Ice Sheet (and subsequent sea level rise) and is the subject of much current research. Studying the sediments in front of the glacier will give some insight into rates and directions of its ongoing retreat.
Geology
Dr Siobhán Power
We will start off by looking at the broad geology and landscape around the Tasermiut fjord, SW Greenland. The young explorers will map the geological and the geomorphological features of the region and look at how the two relate to each other. They will then be able to focus on more specific projects such as finding an origin for the sediments in the rivers and on the glaciers.
Pro-glacial hydrology and sediment transport
Prof Tim Stott
This project aims to monitor suspended sediment transport, river discharge and air temperature in the pro-glacial zone of a suitable glacier around the Tasermiut fjord (eg. Uiluit Kua, Sermitsiag or Itivdlerssuaq). It extends work carried out by Tim on the 1998 BSES expedition in NE Greenland. Young explorers will undertake flow measurements, river surveys, 24-hr sampling programmes and sample processing. The 1998 results were published in two scientific journals and the same is hoped for 2009.
Social Sciences
Dr Kris von Wald
The social sciences fire will give young explorers an opportunity to engage in designing and developing an enquiry about the experiences of expedition participants while they are on expedition. YE’s will decide what questions they find interesting and explore different methods of answering those questions. The framework may include an exploration of their individual experiences, the experiences of their fires, the experiences across fires, and the experiences of fire/expedition leaders. They will learn research skills such as interview techniques and observational skills; creative writing, storytelling and case study approaches; gathering and representing data using all of their senses and accommodating different learning styles.
Glaciology
Dr Anne-Marie Nuttall
The glaciology fire will tackle questions that are highly relevant to current concerns about climate change. An ongoing project will monitor melt rates on the surface of the Sermitsiaq glacier, and analyse how these are affected by air temperature, humidity and other meteorological factors. Flow rates of the glacier will be surveyed to see if the glacier moves faster at times when more meltwater is produced. This positive feedback mechanism may lead to substantial acceleration of large areas of the Greenland Ice Sheet (and subsequent sea level rise) and is the subject of much current research. Studying the sediments in front of the glacier will give some insight into rates and directions of its ongoing retreat.
Geology
Dr Siobhán Power
We will start off by looking at the broad geology and landscape around the Tasermiut fjord, SW Greenland. The young explorers will map the geological and the geomorphological features of the region and look at how the two relate to each other. They will then be able to focus on more specific projects such as finding an origin for the sediments in the rivers and on the glaciers.
BSES 2010 Expeditions
BSES will be returning to many locations in 2010 to enable us to conduct year on year fieldwork and build up a body of knowledge.
We are now taking applications for 2010 expeditions:
We are now taking applications for 2010 expeditions:
If you are between 16-23 and up for a potentially life-changing challenge, download an application form HERE
It could be you next year!
It could be you next year!
Support BSES
BSES is a youth development charity that has been running fieldwork expeditions since 1932. Our work simply wouldn't be possible without our funders, supporters and fantastic volunteer leaders.
If you feel you would like to contribute towards expeditions in future years and help more young people develop into more rounded individuals, you can do so by clicking the link below.
If you would like to support our charity, any amount large or small will be greatly appreciated. To find out more about BSES use the links on the right hand side.
Click below to donate now. Thank You!
Team Greenland 2009
A BSES expedition is formed of one or more 'fires'. A Fire is a group of people that historically would hold 12 people in total as this was the number that the founding member of the society, Surgeon Commander George Murray Levick , believed fitted best around a camp fire.
Below are the Fires and their leaders:
Glaciology / Ghostbusters Fire
Leaders
Anne-Marie Nuttall
Jeff Brown
Laura Le Cheminant
Young Explorers
Richard Brown
Bertie Tysome
Josh Rhodes
Alasdair Sherry
Alex Steele
Katy McCalister
Katie Dorritt
Cat Kelham
Pippa Hothersall
Alex Skimer
Alex Bloomfield
Jack Davies
Social Science / Isuma Fire
Leaders
Kris Von Wald
Joe Gibson
Ellie Biggs
Brenda Berry
Young Explorers
Tarik Benelbaida
Thomas Gormley
Stephanie Bell
Philip Orchin
Rebecca Van Hove
Edward Whittle
Rachel Jones
Louise Bradley
Robert Adkins
Dean Smith
Andrew Hewitt
Sarah Bellerby
Geology / Qaqqaq Fire
Leaders
Takako Takano
Siobhán Power
Ben Lane
Young Explorers
Alan Clark
Simon Eastham
Hope Thomas
Kieran Berrington
Nadia Couvert
Helen Burns
Emma McPherson
Fiona Don
Jack Lyndon-Skeggs
Donald Slater
Lee Helyer
Kofi Weekes
Emily Lambert
Fluvial / Kuuk Fire
Leaders
Tim Stott
Vicki Paris
Lyndsey Weare
Young Explorers
Mark Dyer
Chris Miller
Alec Beattie
Ed Morgan
Luke Payne
Kirsten Sinclair
Emmelyn Van Zanten
Claire Turnaley
Joe Benson
Rosie Rowbotham
Thomas Moorby
Jordan Clipson
Base Camp team
Pete Allison
Keith Slater
Nancy Pickup
Pete Allison
Keith Slater
Nancy Pickup
Fire Support
Irene Bews
Ally Sangster
Andy Kempster
Steve Ayres
Richard Pattison
Nathan Williams
Mountaineers
Johannes Felter
Andy Rockall
Tuesday, 30 June 2009
Counting Down
In two weeks time the advance party will be arriving in Greenland. Under the leadership of Dr Joe Gibson 10 people will fly from the UK (4 YE's and 6 leaders) to Iceland, stay overnight and then fly to Narsarsuaq. In boats they will transfer to Nanortalik and spend 4 days there before heading into the fjord on 18th July (weather dependent!). In Iceland they will meet one more member (Mr Jeff Brown) of the advance party and in Greenland they will meet the 12th member of the party (Dr Takako Takano).
They have a long list of jobs but the main one is to open the container and unpack food, science kit and mountaineering equipment. They will also be confirming arrangements for the main party. They will be staying in the small red youth hostel with a great view - see pics!
Thursday, 18 June 2009
Sunday, 24 May 2009
Friday 22nd May
Up early for a swim and a brisk walk across the city to a school where we have a meeting with the headteacher. It all works rather well and she kindly offers to accommodate the whole expedition in the classrooms on the way there and back! Bingo! Its close to the airstrip so we will get a coach from Keflavik to there and then the next morning just walk to catch our flight to Greenland. On the return we will reverse these plans. Finally it seems that the logistics are starting to drop into place.
In the afternoon we catch the coach for an hour to get to Kefleavik and by 9pm we are at Heathrow. Its been a fast 10 days but we have covered a lot of ground. Can’t wait to be back in Greenland again – there are going to be some great adventures for us all.
In the afternoon we catch the coach for an hour to get to Kefleavik and by 9pm we are at Heathrow. Its been a fast 10 days but we have covered a lot of ground. Can’t wait to be back in Greenland again – there are going to be some great adventures for us all.
Thursday 21st May
5am – up, packed and off to the heliport! In usual Greenland style we arrive to find that the helicopter is delayed – come back at 11am but you can leave your bags! We return for a couple more hours sleep, a last wonder around town and then on to the delayed flight. This leaves us just an hour in Narsarsuaq to check in again for the flight to Iceland, meet with Jacky to talk boats and try and locate a lady who runs the local ‘klub’ – a community centre where we can stay. Before we know it all meetings are complete, we board the plane and promptly snooze for the 2.5 hour flight to Reykjavik!
Food and a sleep – that’s what we need and that’s what we have.
Wednesday 20th May
A day of meetings! We have 101 jobs to do – mainly a meeting with the tourist office who are helping with advance party logistics, sourcing fuel for boats and stoves and all kinds of other little jobs we cant do without a translator. It’s a busy but fruitful day – the last day in Nanortalik, icebergs are still floating by and we are preparing for an early flight tomorrow to Narsarsuaq then on to Iceland.
Tuesday 19th May
The weather has changed! Its rained through most of the night and it looks set to remain for the day. We force ourselves out of bed knowing that this is the last day in the fjord and we need to get west along the valley to the Norse ruin and to check out the glacier as a possible site for the glaciology fire. As usual it sounds worse than it is. Getting ourselves organised we have one person outside the tent in waterproofs and two inside packing kit. Having all kit in coloured stuff sacks makes life much easier.
We head west and notice how there is fresh snow on the mountains – we must be just below the freezing level at base camp. There is plenty of willow scrub to work our way through and it takes longer than anticipated. Gaiters are essential kit and in the summer we imagine there will be no shortage of mozzies too! After about three hours of walking we get to a Norse ruin overlooking a marsh and in view of the glacier. It’s a dramatic location with a 360 vista – we pause and contemplate what life must have been like in times gone by and how people survived living here in such a hostile environment.
The rain has eased off and we stride back to the fjord side knowing that we have a pick up scheduled in a boat and can’t be late. Three days away and it feels like three weeks – we are refreshed from the time but definitely not smelling fresh! With regret we leave the fjord but there is some comfort in knowing we will be back in two months – fabulous. The journey back is dominated by conversation of what it will be like when the whole expedition arrive at base camp and how the science sites will be ideal. Returning to Nanortalik feels like returning to a metropolis – what will it be like to be back in Heathrow in 2 days time?!
The rain has eased off and we stride back to the fjord side knowing that we have a pick up scheduled in a boat and can’t be late. Three days away and it feels like three weeks – we are refreshed from the time but definitely not smelling fresh! With regret we leave the fjord but there is some comfort in knowing we will be back in two months – fabulous. The journey back is dominated by conversation of what it will be like when the whole expedition arrive at base camp and how the science sites will be ideal. Returning to Nanortalik feels like returning to a metropolis – what will it be like to be back in Heathrow in 2 days time?!
Saturday, 23 May 2009
Monday 18th May
Waking up to fantastic weather in Tasermiut gets us all thinking about what an amazing place this will be to spend the summer. The task for the day is to walk up into paradise valley to look for potential sites for the glaciology fieldwork and the mountaineering.
After a steep pull up from the shore and some clambering over moraine we get in to the U shaped valley and walk towards the ice. It’s cool but we are ok with thermals, a fleece and our waterproofs on which keeps the wind off. Three hours later and we arrive at a good rock for lunch, looking around at rock faces and glaciers we talk about plans for waste disposal, how long it will take for faeces to decompose and other appropriate lunchtime chat! Returning to base we are pleased to be wearing sun cream.
Friday, 22 May 2009
Sunday 17th May
Another early start as we need to get kit sorted and buy supplies for the two nights we will spend in the fjord. We board the boat at 10am, start the journey into the fjord and are immediately surrounded by spectacular scenery. Reaching the head of the fjord it is obvious that the main glacier has receded significantly since 1997 expedition to this area (see 1997 and 2009 photos below). Standing by the shore surrounded by these mountains we can’t help but be reminded of our humility and how tiny we are in such a grand landscape.
Once the boat drops us off we waste no time it getting out to explore the area on the east side of the fjord. Tim wants to look at the lake formed at the bottom of Sermitsiaq glacier and we are surprised to find it is actually a salt water lake connected by just a short channel to the main fjord. Several pro-glacial streams flow across the smoothed rock carrying high suspended sediment loads which enter the lake forming brown sediment plumes which show up against the blue water. We clamber up the smooth rocks to the glacier snout to examine the seracs and crevasses at close quarters, then continue up to the south side of the valley and scramble onto the lateral moraine to descend back to our camp at the fjord. Tim is overflowing with ideas for science projects his group could do in this area but the cravasses and difficult access means this is not a good site for the mountaineering phase of the expedition so tomorrow we will go and look at the next valley which is the planned route to the ice.
Once the boat drops us off we waste no time it getting out to explore the area on the east side of the fjord. Tim wants to look at the lake formed at the bottom of Sermitsiaq glacier and we are surprised to find it is actually a salt water lake connected by just a short channel to the main fjord. Several pro-glacial streams flow across the smoothed rock carrying high suspended sediment loads which enter the lake forming brown sediment plumes which show up against the blue water. We clamber up the smooth rocks to the glacier snout to examine the seracs and crevasses at close quarters, then continue up to the south side of the valley and scramble onto the lateral moraine to descend back to our camp at the fjord. Tim is overflowing with ideas for science projects his group could do in this area but the cravasses and difficult access means this is not a good site for the mountaineering phase of the expedition so tomorrow we will go and look at the next valley which is the planned route to the ice.
Saturday 16th May
A very early start to get the helicopter to Qaqortoq, leaving at 0630. The planned stop in Qaqortoq was for three hours which we planned to use for breakfast and then trying to locate a landing craft that we could possibly use to get the contents of the container to base camp. Breakfast was no problem and we found three potential landing crafts – however, finding the owners and how available they are is another matter! We managed to get a telephone number and are advised to call in a few days time. Returning to the helicopter pad we find we are delayed as there is a rescue in operation. Someone has gone out in a light aircraft and run out of fuel so had to put the plane down in the sea. All possible rescue resources are diverted and we are told to wait. Several hours later no news on the rescue but we are on the way to Nanortalik. Met by Niels and staying in Old Anders House – a tiny house which resembles a garden shed – home for the night! We are tired as we arrive in this small fishing village perched on the edge of this small island. Tomorrow morning we are leaving for the fjord so the excitement mounts – it’s been a long journey so far and we are ready to get into the expedition area.
A very early start to get the helicopter to Qaqortoq, leaving at 0630. The planned stop in Qaqortoq was for three hours which we planned to use for breakfast and then trying to locate a landing craft that we could possibly use to get the contents of the container to base camp. Breakfast was no problem and we found three potential landing crafts – however, finding the owners and how available they are is another matter! We managed to get a telephone number and are advised to call in a few days time. Returning to the helicopter pad we find we are delayed as there is a rescue in operation. Someone has gone out in a light aircraft and run out of fuel so had to put the plane down in the sea. All possible rescue resources are diverted and we are told to wait. Several hours later no news on the rescue but we are on the way to Nanortalik. Met by Niels and staying in Old Anders House – a tiny house which resembles a garden shed – home for the night! We are tired as we arrive in this small fishing village perched on the edge of this small island. Tomorrow morning we are leaving for the fjord so the excitement mounts – it’s been a long journey so far and we are ready to get into the expedition area.
Thursday, 21 May 2009
Friday 15th May
Wake very early in the bright morning sunshine and start tackling our list of jobs of the day. Although Narsarsuaq is only a small town with a population of about 200, there seem to be a lot of people we want to meet. One of the great advantages of having an international airport in such a tiny town is that the group will be able to walk from the airport down to the docks to meet the boats which will provide onward transport to base camp in Tasermiut Fjord. Meeting with these boat owners to finalise plans has been one of the main tasks of the day, as well as searching out some accommodation for the day or so we will probably be spending here at the end of the expedition. As we have seen this week the ice conditions here often affect boat travel and so our departure from base camp in August will have to allow plenty of time to make sure we make the flight. The town should provide an interesting end to the expedition. Narsarsuaq acted as an American military base towards the end of the Second World War (when it was known as Bluie West One) and so we have also been spotting signs of the town’s history and its wildlife (white tailed sea eagles, peregrine falcons and arctic hares).
Wake very early in the bright morning sunshine and start tackling our list of jobs of the day. Although Narsarsuaq is only a small town with a population of about 200, there seem to be a lot of people we want to meet. One of the great advantages of having an international airport in such a tiny town is that the group will be able to walk from the airport down to the docks to meet the boats which will provide onward transport to base camp in Tasermiut Fjord. Meeting with these boat owners to finalise plans has been one of the main tasks of the day, as well as searching out some accommodation for the day or so we will probably be spending here at the end of the expedition. As we have seen this week the ice conditions here often affect boat travel and so our departure from base camp in August will have to allow plenty of time to make sure we make the flight. The town should provide an interesting end to the expedition. Narsarsuaq acted as an American military base towards the end of the Second World War (when it was known as Bluie West One) and so we have also been spotting signs of the town’s history and its wildlife (white tailed sea eagles, peregrine falcons and arctic hares).
Wednesday, 20 May 2009
Thursday 14th May
We spent the morning searching for schools, sports halls and community centres near to the airport in Reykjavik for the advance, main and rear party to use en route. We want to locate somewhere as close to the airstrip as possible so we can simplify the logistics and all be in one place. We were met by very helpful people in schools, located a youth centre that will work and arranged a meeting for next week when we pass through Iceland again. We are hopeful that we will find somewhere within walking distance of the airstrip so after the overnight in Iceland we can walk to the airstrip.
In the afternoon we caught the flight to Narsarsuaq. The airport is very small and we were entertained at the thought of 60 of us in there swamping the café and waiting lounge! The 2.5 hour flight went quickly and we got occasional glimpses of coastline and icecap despite the rather squashed 7 rows of seats. Coming into land was spectacular and the ice in the fjord was not encouraging. It’s a beautiful clear sunny day – but cold! Sure enough we were met by Jacky who owns a boat and was meant to take us to Qaqortoq. ‘No way we can make it through the ice’ so we have to stay in Narsarsuaq for 2 nights instead and then get the helicopter on Saturday. We are all disappointed as we wanted to get going and start on finding a boat for the container contents to get into the fjord. However – such are expeditions – whatever the plan is it will change! So, we stay in the youth hostel and Jacky takes us to see his boat and try to make the way through the ice to Brattahlid – the village across the fjord where Eric the red lived. As there have been regular boats going over there the ice is broken up and we just make it. It confirms that there is no way we could make it to Qaqortoq though.
Over some food in the café at the hotel we revise our plans and make lists for Fridays jobs. We retire to the youth hostel for the night but it’s strange to be walking in bright sunshine at 10pm. Mid may and its bright almost all day long.
We spent the morning searching for schools, sports halls and community centres near to the airport in Reykjavik for the advance, main and rear party to use en route. We want to locate somewhere as close to the airstrip as possible so we can simplify the logistics and all be in one place. We were met by very helpful people in schools, located a youth centre that will work and arranged a meeting for next week when we pass through Iceland again. We are hopeful that we will find somewhere within walking distance of the airstrip so after the overnight in Iceland we can walk to the airstrip.
In the afternoon we caught the flight to Narsarsuaq. The airport is very small and we were entertained at the thought of 60 of us in there swamping the café and waiting lounge! The 2.5 hour flight went quickly and we got occasional glimpses of coastline and icecap despite the rather squashed 7 rows of seats. Coming into land was spectacular and the ice in the fjord was not encouraging. It’s a beautiful clear sunny day – but cold! Sure enough we were met by Jacky who owns a boat and was meant to take us to Qaqortoq. ‘No way we can make it through the ice’ so we have to stay in Narsarsuaq for 2 nights instead and then get the helicopter on Saturday. We are all disappointed as we wanted to get going and start on finding a boat for the container contents to get into the fjord. However – such are expeditions – whatever the plan is it will change! So, we stay in the youth hostel and Jacky takes us to see his boat and try to make the way through the ice to Brattahlid – the village across the fjord where Eric the red lived. As there have been regular boats going over there the ice is broken up and we just make it. It confirms that there is no way we could make it to Qaqortoq though.
Over some food in the café at the hotel we revise our plans and make lists for Fridays jobs. We retire to the youth hostel for the night but it’s strange to be walking in bright sunshine at 10pm. Mid may and its bright almost all day long.
Recce
Wednesday 13th May
An early start to get to Heathrow in good time and we made it there despite the M25 traffic. All easy with the journey and coach from Keflavik to Reykjavik which took about an hour. Tim, Nancy and Pete spent the entire time writing lists and talking about things we need to do. Tim mainly focused on science, where we need to get to in the fjord, what would be interesting to find out in preparation for the expedition and who we need to make contact with. Nancy and Pete spent the whole time talking about transport and logistics, what’s in the container (which is now ‘en route’) and who will travel where and when in the main party.
Wednesday 13th May
An early start to get to Heathrow in good time and we made it there despite the M25 traffic. All easy with the journey and coach from Keflavik to Reykjavik which took about an hour. Tim, Nancy and Pete spent the entire time writing lists and talking about things we need to do. Tim mainly focused on science, where we need to get to in the fjord, what would be interesting to find out in preparation for the expedition and who we need to make contact with. Nancy and Pete spent the whole time talking about transport and logistics, what’s in the container (which is now ‘en route’) and who will travel where and when in the main party.
Container Blog – Tues 12th May
Today felt like a big step forward in bringing the Greenland expedition to life as we waved off the shipping container full of all our group kit from the BSES stores in Hampshire. Many of the leader team spent a couple of days before the briefing weekend breaking the back of the enormous task of packing for the expedition; counting out all the mountaineering kit, shopping for food and checking tents had all the right bits in them. Since then it been a busy few weeks of sourcing any extra kit we will need, servicing stoves and finalising a deal with the army to borrow two of their inflatable boats for the summer. With all this in place the day finally arrived when we would see if all these mountains of kit and food would actually fit in the container! Thankfully it did and at 2.30pm we wedged the doors shut and waved our bright blue 20 foot container off on its 6 week journey to Nanortalik. Looking forward to meeting it again at the other end!
Today felt like a big step forward in bringing the Greenland expedition to life as we waved off the shipping container full of all our group kit from the BSES stores in Hampshire. Many of the leader team spent a couple of days before the briefing weekend breaking the back of the enormous task of packing for the expedition; counting out all the mountaineering kit, shopping for food and checking tents had all the right bits in them. Since then it been a busy few weeks of sourcing any extra kit we will need, servicing stoves and finalising a deal with the army to borrow two of their inflatable boats for the summer. With all this in place the day finally arrived when we would see if all these mountains of kit and food would actually fit in the container! Thankfully it did and at 2.30pm we wedged the doors shut and waved our bright blue 20 foot container off on its 6 week journey to Nanortalik. Looking forward to meeting it again at the other end!
Tuesday, 21 April 2009
YE briefing weekend
A weekend trip to Derby was the first chance for all the young explorers and leaders to meet each other. The weekend was packed with activities concerning details for the expedition, including mountaineering, communications, putting up tents, lighting stoves, environmental issues and kit. The YEs formed themselves into fires based on which science they wished to partake in on the expedition - glaciology, geology, hydrology and social science. Everyone had a great time getting to know one another; we even had some sunshine!
Photos (Takano, 2009): Ben and Joe manning the communications station - radios, satellite phones, gps etc. (left); Andy and Johannes instructing on belaying and knots (bottom right); the YEs (bottom left)


Monday, 20 April 2009
Packing the supplies
All food and equipment supplies have been sorted and packed up into boxes onto palettes or into barrels to be put onto the container which will leave for Nanortalik soon. Lots of 'luxury' food items have been included to complement the dehy ration packs.
Photos (Nuttall, 2009): Prof. Stott's going to be walking a long way (top left); Nancy, Kris, Pete and Tim sorting helmets, ice axes, crampons etc.. (top right); Dr. Vicki checking the stretcher is fully functional with Lau the willing volunteer and help from Takako (bottom left); Lau and Ellie sorting through art supplies to take (generously donated by Reeves) (bottom right).
Wednesday, 8 April 2009
Blogging home
Just in the early stages of creating a blog for the expedition. This website will keep you updated of our progress both building up to the expedition and hopefully a few times once we are out there. Hopefully we'll be able to upload some amazing photos for all to see and you can virtually follow in our footsteps through locations recorded on our map.
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