INTRODUCTION

Greetings from base camp where finally the BSES Greenland 09 expedition is complete. This missive will, subject to the vagary of technology, be the first of what we hope will be weekly updates on the expedition. But please note that there are technical challenges ranging from battery management to getting a satellite link, there are human challenges, such as finding time to write. So the premise is no news is good news, if it goes quiet it’s that we are too busy or unable to write to you from the field. So with that established we will endeavour to keep you updated on life here in Tasermiut Fjord and its surrounding mountains and glaciers. Each piece of our journal will start with an informal but informed overview of the expedition. This will be compiled at base camp by the leadership team. However the most important part of the Journal will be written by the YEs themselves. It is their experiences that matter most and are after all our whole purpose of being here. However there will be challenges in this later aspiration, since the whole concept is that they are working in their fires away from base camp. Their programme is varied not only have they a specific adventure phase whilst on the glaciers but they have the focus of their own scientific projects, as well as additional activities such as studying some of the Norse archaeology in the region. (Although we are pretty isolated we are not by any means the first to camp in this region!) All of this is on top of the challenges of looking after ourselves and everyday expedition life for 5 weeks. So whilst mobile phones are no longer the daily distraction of our lives more fundamental issues such as collecting water are.

We will publish this journal in full on the expedition website (www.greenland09.co.uk ) where you will also find much greater detail on the expedition aims and objectives as well as a chance to meet all of the participants and get links to not only the BSES website but also our other supporters and partners such as the Army. An abridged version will appear on the expedition blog spot ( www.bsesgreenland2009.blogspot.com ) but we won’t be able to publish all of the photographs.

A MESSAGE FROM PETE ALLISON EXPEDITION LEADER

We are finally all at base camp – it has been a long journey to get here (in more ways than one). The details of the journey are above and there are more specifics below. My main purpose here is to say what a wonderful job all of the young explorers are doing. Our job as leaders is to create a framework for them to explore and to learn within (more at the web site referenced above). The main focus is their development and learning and so much of the conversation so far has been about identifying what they understand by learning and development. After one night at base camp with the whole expedition present fires started to leave which minimises the chances of base camp fever and enables everyone to capitalise on their energy to start exploring this surreal landscape.

On a personal note, the pleasure of seeing everyone’s faces arriving in the fjord, seeing the busy-ness of base camp as people count rations, pack, re pack and prepare is a joy. I am struck by the appetite for adventure of everyone ad thoroughly impressed with the way that the YE’s are conducting themselves. A credit to themselves.

Finally, the expedition is possible and considerably enhanced by the first class leader team that are here and giving their everything to make the expedition a fabulous experience for all involved. My personal thanks go to everyone who has helped the expedition get here – BSES staff, Army personnel and everyone who has supported YE’s in whatever ways (big and small).


OVERVIEW

The morning of 20 July heralded a new dawn for us all and as YE’s and leaders gathered there was no doubting the buzz of excitement at Heathrow departure lounge. But when does an expedition become an expedition? For some their journey had started with a fond farewell to home and creature comforts the previous day. But for all of us the real journey had started months or even years ago. Expeditions don’t just start, they emerge. For BSES and the expedition leadership the journey started 2 years ago as fledgling ideas where discussed, dismissed, reborn, refined and finally given life as ideas turned into tangible reality. For YEs their journey has been a similar one as they first heard of the opportunity, dared to dream and set about being accepted before turning to the reality of funding their participation. The only significance of being at Heathrow was that it turned dreams and aspirations into the beginning of the actual expedition. Heathrow was not a beginning only a step on the journey.

Arriving in Iceland three hours later was another step. A coach journey from the airport into Reykjavik brought us to a local school (Hagaskoli) that had generously agreed to let us use their school hall as a dormitory and their kitchen to cook supper and breakfast. (The attending bureaucracy that would attend a similar request in the reverse direction is unimaginable) With minimal supervision the YEs shopped and prepared both supper and the following morning breakfast. (So, families, friends and others … no more excuses about not knowing how to cook when asked to help in the kitchen!). At nine o’clock on Tuesday morning a long snake of 60 people wound its way through the suburbs of Reykjavik. Not only was it loaded down with personal kit but group stores ranging from science kit to cooking pans accompanied the trail.

After a two hour flight we arrived in Narsarsuaq, the main airport in Southern Greenland. Immediately we split into boat parties for the 6 hour journey to base camp. Because only three boats were available and we required five we always knew this would be a phased shuttle. Although there were a few delays on the way, we all made it to base camp. As Pete is often reminding us “on real expeditions the unexpected is always happening”. It was not until late on the 22 July that we were all finally complete at basecamp and by now this expedition seems very real!! The journey down the coast was dramatic with icebergs floating all around and steep rocky mountains in the background.

The following day was straight into a round robin of training activities including river crossings, first aid, boat briefing and the use of radios. In addition YEs were coming to terms with the realities of expedition camping. Not least of the challenges being sorting 5 weeks rations for the 15 or so members of each fire into a menu plan that translated into real meals to provide energy for adventures.

Thursday evening saw the first fire leaving base camp. Fluvial hydrology (nicknamed as Fluviology) fire crossed the fjord to their scientific project site. The following morning social science travelled across the fjord to their first camp site and an opportunity to consider their approach to their own science. Glaciology walked up the valley to place out their first markers to allow them to measure the speed at which the glacier is moving. They bivvied overnight before walking back the following day. Geology Fire is still in the base camp area but they have been busy both being introduced to the local geology and also how to map it by using plain table techniques.

So already our expedition is well under way and we are getting into the swing of life in the field. Over the next few journals we will update you more on the fires activities but in the mean time do look at the science section of the web site to find out more about the projects.

A YEs VIEW OF LIFE SO FAR

We eased our way into geology by taking a walk down the beach and looking at the different types of rocks present there. The next day we did our first day hike into the hills in a north-west direction and learned more about how the area was formed. We managed to climb higher up on the side of the mountain to gain a better view of the valley. We are all enjoying learning about these processes in such an amazing environment. The fire has bonded well and having fun. We are looking forward to leaving base-camp on a two-day hike on the other side of the fjord tomorrow. The mosquitoes are driving everyone insane so were looking forward to the adventure phase on the ice where hopefully there will not be any. We did not realise how cold the river was until we had a workshop on river crossing and two people (Fiona and Nadia) got an unscheduled bath, showers are likely to be less frequent than first anticipated. Apart from the cold and the initial doubts about making it to the other side, we all had a lot of fun and did not really mind the cold and wet. Most of the fire took a later boat to base camp which broke down and the group were fortunate enough to be able to spend a relaxed day in Qaqortoq while a replacement boat was being scheduled. The first view of the main valley glacier was incredible, it finally sunk in that we had really come to Greenland! The fire was finally reunited on Wednesday night. Everyone is upbeat, partly due to most of the fire piling into one tent for a group morale booster every night! We are all looking forward to an amazing expedition!

Hope Thomas, Nadia Covert and Alan Clark.